After my parter Old Crow recovered from a very long night downtown, we had breakfast then headed out to the highway for a quick jaunt on the steeps. The ice is great right now with lots of seldom formed drips in quite well. We had our eyes on Hypercard, the thin smear to the left of Roadside Attraction.
My rock beat his scissor and after an energy drink and some Queens of the Stone Age on full blast during the drive out, I was amped up and rearing to go. The cars already lined up in eager anticipation of some climber/highway carnage.
The first 25 feet are thin and nearly impossible to protect, so I ran it out until I got to the first ledge. A 16cm screw sunk to the head, but in some very bad ice, so I put another just a few feet higher. The second part was the hardest...steep and aerated ice with a good runout. I made it through and even got a piece in...how awesome is that!!!
I got a little rest at the top of the second flow and put in a screw in solid ice. Up there, the ice was super wet and what we call 'thunker' which means it was very secure. Though I had leashes, I had them super super loose so I was pretty much climbing leashless, since I had no ability to rest on them. Basically, I got super pumped. Regardless, I made it up to the anchor and decided just to belay my partner up from the top instead of rapping down. Besides, it looked cooler that way.
Old Crow seconded and cleaned, then we rapped down and looked both ways before crossing the street and drove off like it 'ain't no thang!'