tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46466073313376776042024-03-14T09:08:24.651-08:00Higher DreamsLife revealed from steep and high placesClint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-28687271835395738602010-11-10T12:16:00.004-09:002010-11-10T12:47:27.211-09:00SethI've put off writing about this for as long as I can.<br />On August 24th, 2010, Seth Holden died in a plane crash with Brandon Reilly. He had texted me earlier in the evening, saying he'd climbed Summit Peak in Girdwood with our friend Ben. He seemed really excited about it and in the later photos, it was apparent he had enjoyed it greatly. When the plane crashed at around 7:45 PM, the late August sunset painted the sky in a spectrum of oranges and reds, pinks and purples. It was beautiful.<br /> <br /> Seth was many things to me. He was my most continuous climbing partner. I looked up to him in certain aspects, from his nonchalant attitude to his work ethic and quiet demeanor. His impeccable outdoor knowledge spanned the spectrum from climbing and skiing to hunting, fishing and extreme survival skills. When I first met Seth, I was far from calling myself a climber. Seth had already climbed Denali, completed numerous big wall routes in Yosemite, endured week-long ski winter traverses, scaled volcanoes in South America, alpine routes in Chamonix, the Ruth Gorge, Cascades, Chugach and beyond. I finally mustered up the courage one day to invite him on a climb of North Suicide, a mere winter peak bagging trip for him but a test-piece for me at the time. It was fun then, over the next few years to gage my increasing skills next to Seth. As I gained experience I began to see myself as Seth's equal on the rope and that brought me endless amounts of pride. <br /><br /> Seth and I went on to share five serious trips to the Alaska Range in three years. Together we attempted the Mooses Tooth, a bold winter ascent of Peak 11.300 and three trips to the Revelation Mountains. It was in our cherished Revelations where Seth and I melded the best. Here, in a remote and mostly uncharted range, we stood under tremendous unclimbed peaks. Here we were reliant solely upon each other. It was in the Revelations where I think we both shared some of the happiest moments of our lives. Seth and I completed two first ascents and attempted countless others. <br /> On the last climb we ever did together, we attempted the South Ridge of the Angel in the Revelations. The route had been attempted 43 years earlier by Dave Roberts, but remained unclimbed. We trained together, analyzed grainy black and white photographs, memorized it's lone trip report and kept each other motivated. When we finally got on the Angel in early June of 2010, we had already waited for 12 days to fly into the range and had been swatted back on another of our obsessions, the unclimbed Mount Mausolus. But, on this day, Seth and I both found that rare type of perfection that a climber always seeks. We had perfect weather and a beautiful, complex route ahead of us. We climbed fast and with a zeal that I have experienced on only a handful of occasions. We made it half way up the route in about six hours, but had to turn for lack of appropriate gear for a small section of aid. We intended to get back on the route the following day, but it quickly became apparent that we were out of time, since our runway was becoming spotted with rocks as the snow melted in front of our eyes. With much disappointment, we looked up at the ridge from our base camp with a promise to complete it as soon as possible. I still remember how Seth hooted and screamed in elation, something very surprising coming from a usual quiet person. I smile still, knowing that we both agreed that it was the single best day of climbing either of us had ever had. I feel lucky to have shared that time with Seth.<br /> Seth was a fighter and survivor. A close friend said “if you just gave Seth a chance he could survive anything.” Sadly on this occasion, he didn't even have a fighting chance.<br /><br /> I miss the way he tossed his head back when he laughed. I miss the times we spent sitting under massive unclimbed mountains, pondering their seemingly impenetrable defenses. I miss scouring over maps and photos, plotting our next adventure which was never far off whether it be in the Chugach mountains, Yosemite valley or the Alaska range. I miss the comfort of knowing that he was keeping me safe. Most of all though, I just miss my friend. Seth was the best partner I've ever had. How do you replace something like that? I really, really miss him, and will carry his memory with me forever.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGpGKjXRBACNscGVmINtePcD4X2IbB4n4i4__8E97s1rxZHrjssQ1lhv3ycd1OpGH8TxnZmdLFF5nXIZ9F4mkqOeas6nVvC67gNurSDIpo0EhhWtvy5KgRZSP74c8FaGW1HH39zmjITA/s1600/DSC02742.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGpGKjXRBACNscGVmINtePcD4X2IbB4n4i4__8E97s1rxZHrjssQ1lhv3ycd1OpGH8TxnZmdLFF5nXIZ9F4mkqOeas6nVvC67gNurSDIpo0EhhWtvy5KgRZSP74c8FaGW1HH39zmjITA/s320/DSC02742.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538039498078975634" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6uCST6ruPynu3x6U_D5de9CKJdir-ea7ZjU2gC-HNeTnRyIzOD6LzJxsYgP6SquAoXwZU4p4gu-WeTJlT7O8_CeDGp-9WlOueR9NWlMDqY9qNIaT84mV-RaWCQS0os1HZquAqVKc8UU/s1600/DSC02847+copy.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6uCST6ruPynu3x6U_D5de9CKJdir-ea7ZjU2gC-HNeTnRyIzOD6LzJxsYgP6SquAoXwZU4p4gu-WeTJlT7O8_CeDGp-9WlOueR9NWlMDqY9qNIaT84mV-RaWCQS0os1HZquAqVKc8UU/s320/DSC02847+copy.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538039485502604978" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEFKjIoavJ-nIuTkFkvoUt0IDQZI4IW-wlLu7MkXJsuwh0vUsJ135UUhE7aFR7clkdIN47s8bjXs9J_0rO1C69HC_zfVNrfK2BPHJ2bfmbUigRJvKoTNCTx26K49vXxml18yb3ZWlQcE/s1600/GOPR0042+copy.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEFKjIoavJ-nIuTkFkvoUt0IDQZI4IW-wlLu7MkXJsuwh0vUsJ135UUhE7aFR7clkdIN47s8bjXs9J_0rO1C69HC_zfVNrfK2BPHJ2bfmbUigRJvKoTNCTx26K49vXxml18yb3ZWlQcE/s320/GOPR0042+copy.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538039474957959634" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieBm2GXdbGPvjxx_eHFFOo1DXXW6pJ57isXevZHGqV3vfWsykFnewy-jg3I6Q9oYVM5t9cn7Lt1-So6LUQbmu7zuTf-r-AmMmpTf6FXFLafQ5nIctQrp0wOAuXaQFyw7aswSL1okzt_f4/s1600/DSC01345.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieBm2GXdbGPvjxx_eHFFOo1DXXW6pJ57isXevZHGqV3vfWsykFnewy-jg3I6Q9oYVM5t9cn7Lt1-So6LUQbmu7zuTf-r-AmMmpTf6FXFLafQ5nIctQrp0wOAuXaQFyw7aswSL1okzt_f4/s320/DSC01345.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538039468318758450" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPC9MyQCpoBp_0BL7RK6AWPdAPEN8So0FAT7fNQYnCefBgK0oXkYbiFBxtYtc0c7tUxqwDAFNtCNQ6sWuqJygYBeSfEGD84EqzGzAH3XgFPAQs1jUGVpcRcwWO0I2JSzA3sX3dxOgSRhM/s1600/DSC00962.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPC9MyQCpoBp_0BL7RK6AWPdAPEN8So0FAT7fNQYnCefBgK0oXkYbiFBxtYtc0c7tUxqwDAFNtCNQ6sWuqJygYBeSfEGD84EqzGzAH3XgFPAQs1jUGVpcRcwWO0I2JSzA3sX3dxOgSRhM/s320/DSC00962.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538039452989025218" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-65895212298687470572010-06-15T15:59:00.004-08:002010-06-15T16:10:27.635-08:00Revelations Climbing VideoHere is a short little video I put together from my helmet cam footage from the Revelations. This is from our attempt on the south ridge of the Angel. Seth and I made fast time up the ridge, climbing above 8,000' on the mountain in about six hours. We hit a massive gendarme with a thin seam that would require aiding. We lacked enough small gear to get through it so we descended with the intention of getting right back on the route.<br /><br />Insanely hot conditions were melting out the glacier (and the runway for the pilot) at an incredible rate. It no longer even froze at night. Tragically we were had to cut our trip short due to the disappearing runway, and we did not get to complete the route.<br /><br />I guess that means we get to go back next year...<br /><br />Enjoy!<br /><object width="375"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/N8poGLPVxtE&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/N8poGLPVxtE&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />You may watch it in a larger format here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8poGLPVxtEClint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-38916242282680131872010-06-01T09:22:00.011-08:002010-06-04T11:04:51.969-08:00Reoccurring Revelations and Reconnoiterings<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhi3zSDtqI/AAAAAAAADFw/wp1hPmp6XAk/s640/IMG_0114.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhi3zSDtqI/AAAAAAAADFw/wp1hPmp6XAk/s640/IMG_0114.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhgYLEIvcI/AAAAAAAADFA/YeO2ZPAIRnw/s640/IMG_0091.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhgYLEIvcI/AAAAAAAADFA/YeO2ZPAIRnw/s640/IMG_0091.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A beautiful pinnacle just above basecamp.</span><br /><br />Another spring has begun, another trip to the rugged Revelation mountains has come to an end. Seth and I ran into more problems this year than we had in previous trips, but overall everything went smooth.<br /><br />After waiting to fly in for five days in Anchorage, Seth and I finally got in the air with Joe Schoester of Sportsman Air Service. As we flew in, Andrew McClain and friends were flying out after spending nearly two weeks skiing steep couloirs in the tightly contoured range. <br /><br />Weather was marginal for our chosen destination and, intent on staying to our fixed plan, we spent the next SEVEN DAYS waiting at Rob Jones' lodge on the Big River. We made no fewer than three attempts to land on a small pocket glacier, thwarted by high winds, low visibility, flat light and a malfunctioning Super Cub. YIKES! Perhaps I was just having to cash in on a little weather karma I've built up over the last few years.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixblB6hiJviqpMuRFPi-cM7woFSgOBNQI4kjchCvCEkiUV8A8TDF42YQUw-DsuHZbY9wIRYGW0GwSV_cVO8zas2HeASYtcARxRnKkZUj28DwbzbuPbyT4EK70smQXAOsEnUEaGseQyC3E/s1600/IMG_0019.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixblB6hiJviqpMuRFPi-cM7woFSgOBNQI4kjchCvCEkiUV8A8TDF42YQUw-DsuHZbY9wIRYGW0GwSV_cVO8zas2HeASYtcARxRnKkZUj28DwbzbuPbyT4EK70smQXAOsEnUEaGseQyC3E/s320/IMG_0019.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478993076526340706" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">We had plenty of time in the first week to become quite good at Sudoku.</span><br /><br />We FINALLY made it out after a total of 12 days of waiting, and none too soon! Our chosen preliminary objective was a massive horrific 4,300-foot face on an unclimbed 9,000-foot peak. We spent the first several days at camp contemplating the route, conditions and our sanity. This peak was M-E-A-N! To our best knowledge, this peak had only been attempted once in the mid 1990s. No one had ever even seen the peak from our chosen side. It has been described as a "hopeless labyrinth" and "perhaps the toughest climb in the range." From the looks of it both descriptions were spot on.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhhbjFpIhI/AAAAAAAADFI/nHbwOKVSEtU/s640/IMG_0097.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhhbjFpIhI/AAAAAAAADFI/nHbwOKVSEtU/s640/IMG_0097.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A view of our first objective from camp. Our main route is hidden from view.</span><br /><br />The mercury skyrocketed in the day, causing massive melt-freeze cycles and cataclysmic avalanches throughout the late morning to late evening. Our supposed route could indeed be classified as a "death line." We stopped counting after 250 avalanches ripped down every part of the mountain in one afternoon. A crescendo of rockfall and roaring snow echoed off the valley's surrounding walls.<br /><br />On one of the last nights where it actually dropped below freezing, we climbed 2,000-feet up the face before calling it. A narrow slot with great looking climbing arched above to the summit, but the mountain was simply too active. Anything that came off the upper slopes would barrage us without fail. It seemed we were just a few days too late in the season. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhjW7Fp6XI/AAAAAAAADF4/raTpfic_f3s/s640/IMG_0133.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhjW7Fp6XI/AAAAAAAADF4/raTpfic_f3s/s640/IMG_0133.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth climbing up the lower couloir of the west face of the unclimbed 9000-foot peak.</span><br /><br />With that we shipped out to the main spine of the Revelations, landing at about 5,300-feet on the narrow rock infested glacier. We set our sites immediately to the unclimbed south ridge of the Angel. In 1967, Dave Roberts attempted the ridge, stopping some 700-feet below the summit. Food was running low and the glacier was melting faster than a snow cone in the Sahara. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhlm8VTQWI/AAAAAAAADGc/t-YtZw4VRqs/s640/IMG_0201.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhlm8VTQWI/AAAAAAAADGc/t-YtZw4VRqs/s640/IMG_0201.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />The first morning we skied up to the base of the Angel, then scouted some other monoliths farther down glacier. By 6:30 the next morning we were kicking steps up to the Angel. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fOBwyxwD4nb_F-b5Yug34qLJ3qrY71y7jFI7DTao8mFDZYSEgbGmRqUhfWw-yjQXpWg2g0LCNaawKyxed112HSby8GUXdPha0gkkW1i3ZfZw8HwPGAn7sbaQivpaLtqY5ql9G_mJjO0/s1600/GOPR0042.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fOBwyxwD4nb_F-b5Yug34qLJ3qrY71y7jFI7DTao8mFDZYSEgbGmRqUhfWw-yjQXpWg2g0LCNaawKyxed112HSby8GUXdPha0gkkW1i3ZfZw8HwPGAn7sbaQivpaLtqY5ql9G_mJjO0/s400/GOPR0042.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478736837156681922" /></a><br />The climbing on the Angel could only be described as jaw-droppingly sublime. I led the first block of pitches, where we simulclimbed roughly 600-feet of terrain up to 5.8. An amazing little 5.8 chimney led to the first major gendarme which was passed by lowering off a hex. Several more great 5.7/5.8 moves led to another shorter simulclimbing block. The climbing was continuously incredible, the coarse alpine granite was perfect. Hoots and hollers echoed off a 7,900-foot peak called the Hydra as we continued up. Seven hours in, we came to a large drop-off and a pinnacle leading to a massive gendarme at about 8,100-feet. It looked doable but not without a little bit of aid. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhme7Uqy3I/AAAAAAAADIw/MaQeSdoizU4/s512/IMG_0205.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhme7Uqy3I/AAAAAAAADIw/MaQeSdoizU4/s512/IMG_0205.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhk5X9g1YI/AAAAAAAADIo/f1fiuhFqsTs/s512/IMG_0210.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhk5X9g1YI/AAAAAAAADIo/f1fiuhFqsTs/s512/IMG_0210.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhkbopzwXI/AAAAAAAADIg/9QKmsX2cxmc/s512/IMG_0208.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhkbopzwXI/AAAAAAAADIg/9QKmsX2cxmc/s512/IMG_0208.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Drenched with sweat due to the heat and with a long and complicated descent ahead of us, we decided to cash in for the night and start our rappels. We were eager to get back to camp and give it another shot with a few more key pieces of gear.<br /><br />After some downclimbing and a rather heinous series of eight rappels over rope-eating flakes, we touched down on the glacier. Our descent went down the ridge before dropping into a slot we called the Black Gully. For the first time on the mountain we encountered poor rock that made rappel anchors hard to come by.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhnkMxiG7I/AAAAAAAADJY/O8UYywDPXaw/s640/IMG_0224.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhnkMxiG7I/AAAAAAAADJY/O8UYywDPXaw/s640/IMG_0224.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth Rappelling off of the Angel.</span><br /><br />It remained extremely warm after that and never really dipped below freezing again. Destitute but determined to nab a first ascent of something, we attempted a route on the unclimbed South Horseman, only to get turned by nasty snow, ice and rockfall conditions. Next we faintly tried a route on an unclimbed 8,100-foot peak by the terrifying Golgotha. That too ended in deep snow avalanche-threatening snow. Later on in the day we returned to see that a natural slide had wiped out our tracks up the first few hundred feet of the route we had climbed.<br /><br />The mountains seemed to be telling us we weren't welcome anymore and our food was down to almost nothing. What small patches of snow had served as our pilot's runway a week ago were melting out to blue ice and rocks by the hour. <br /><br />Quite bummed about not getting to have another serious crack at the Angel, we packed up our stuff. The next day we hiked 18-miles down the Revelation Glacier to the Big River and Rob Jones' lodge. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAho8SFtepI/AAAAAAAADHo/RjN9bDIheV8/s640/IMG_0277.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAho8SFtepI/AAAAAAAADHo/RjN9bDIheV8/s640/IMG_0277.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A C-130 on a pleasure cruise down the Revelation Glacier</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhoqSdoZDI/AAAAAAAADHc/saJ7cnsvrTI/s640/IMG_0249.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TAhoqSdoZDI/AAAAAAAADHc/saJ7cnsvrTI/s640/IMG_0249.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />While we had to walk away empty handed this time, I feel we made some really good choices in tough situations. <br /><br />However, in Dave Robert's book <span style="font-style:italic;">On the Ridge Between Life and Death</span> he says: <blockquote>From the vantage point of middle-aged nostalgia for meteoric youth, it is hard to congratulate yourself for prudence rather than for boldness. I still think Matt and I made the right decision on August 28, 1967. Yet of all the regrets I have about my years in the mountains, in terms of sheer simple “what-might-have-been” - even more than the pang of not accompanying Rick and Art to the top of Kichatna Spire – letting the Angel slip through our fingers when we were within 700 feet of the summit on a perfect day still stings the sharpest.</blockquote><br />Throughout the entire walk out, on the flight back to Anchorage and especially now, situated in the many comforts of urban life I can say only one thing. I know exactly how he feels! We will be back soon.<br /><br />More pictures available <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ClintHelander/Revelations2010#">here</a><br /><br />Thanks to the McNeill-Nott Award and Alpine Adventure Grant for making this trip possible!Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-65093979968540969072010-05-03T13:43:00.002-08:002010-05-03T13:47:29.910-08:00Urban climbingThe past few weeks have been very busy. I've been working almost every day and have had little time to venture into the mountains. <br /><br />Still, we have been preparing for our trip and are hoping to leave this Wednesday. It's down the to final hour!<br /><br />It was quite impressive to see this video of some Brits making a daunting first ascent. It was very inspiring and I'm already scoping an almost certain virgin line up Spenard Avenue. <br /><br /><object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9U0tDU37q2M&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9U0tDU37q2M&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-10025755264257362022010-04-11T11:10:00.022-08:002010-04-12T11:25:57.791-08:00Skiing the North Face of Pioneer<br><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IdbXpZ8lI/AAAAAAAADA8/S615FXpzw3U/s512/IMG_0140.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IdbXpZ8lI/AAAAAAAADA8/S615FXpzw3U/s512/IMG_0140.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs6x-UwAzCizMtBIilYwYIoQPkSamx_XVdV05B0h-3FcdCecp6m5EhOdtI9EWpDL8dUYzbE2cCb3hjBNB_GhfOAvtJ2qL_ks_jXSvZbybGRfioCT5IotqTPN4IqOO5NXMcrBT2ZHx8GGI/s1600/pio.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs6x-UwAzCizMtBIilYwYIoQPkSamx_XVdV05B0h-3FcdCecp6m5EhOdtI9EWpDL8dUYzbE2cCb3hjBNB_GhfOAvtJ2qL_ks_jXSvZbybGRfioCT5IotqTPN4IqOO5NXMcrBT2ZHx8GGI/s320/pio.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5459333698128879682" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Pioneer Peak in late spring conditions</span> <br /><br />For years I have wanted to climb Pioneer Peak's North Face, which rises 6300' directly from the road. Not only is the approach...wait...cut that. There is no approach. Repeat: there is NO approach. Cross the road, start climbing...approach done. Did I mention that there is NO approach?!?!?!<br /><br />There seems to be a short window every April where avalanche conditions are stable and the snow is firm enough to climb and occasionally ski. <br />I had heard of many different ways of it being climbed. Some people told of pitching out ice lines, others brought a rope but only used it in a few spots, others brought an ice axe and nothing else.<br /><br />Driving by it two weeks ago I knew I had to climb it this year. Plus, it would be great training for the upcoming trip to the Revelations. It just had to settle for another week or so and it would be primo!<br /><br />Then I saw that Ryan Hokanson had skied it solo in an afternoon. The thought of skiing it had never really appeared as a feasible option in my head, but...I'm not afraid to jump off into the deep end right off the bat. <br /><br />It turns out Pioneer is loaded with much more snow than usual and it was in great skiing conditions. So after a few repetitions of liquid courage one night, I decided I had to do it! A friend of a friend named Eric from Crested Butte, Colorado would be my partner in crime. Eric is a rippin' tele-skier who has packed a shit ton of skiing into a two-week vacation to Alaska. I figured Pioneer Peak would be the perfect send-off.<br /><br />On Friday we drove out under absolutely stellar blue skies, moderate temps and high hopes. It was surprising to instantly see that we were not alone on the North Face. We quickly saw that not one but TWO parties were ahead of us. Lucky us...we had a great skin track and boot pack all the way up! <br /><br />We passed the first team after an off-route double-black diamond alder schwack suffer-fest that only Alaska could deliver. Not only were there other teams on the route, but low and behold, I knew both of them. Brian and Joe made it to about 3500' before turning, but it was great to see them up there. We eyed the other team ahead of us, kicking a stairway to the summit. <br /> <br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8Idw594vqI/AAAAAAAADBc/U0cgQhmN8X4/s512/IMG_0121.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8Idw594vqI/AAAAAAAADBc/U0cgQhmN8X4/s512/IMG_0121.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><em>Kevin rocking upper couloir</em><br /><br /><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8Id6U-1kGI/AAAAAAAADBo/ADklqqO4ciU/s640/IMG_0125.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8Id6U-1kGI/AAAAAAAADBo/ADklqqO4ciU/s640/IMG_0125.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><em>Eric and Cody contemplate the drop-in</em><br /><br />When we got to the summit, low and behold, we knew the other dudes. It was Cody and Kevin, Small world! We enjoyed beautiful views all the way around then watched as Kevin started the ski train down the initial 55-degree couloir. We skied off the summit (mostly side slipping the first icy chute) then cut great turns all the way down the snowfield into the sun. Several rocky cliffs were navigated and we skied the final 3000' avalanche chute down to the car. Then we made the long walk across the street to our car and hit up some delicious burgers at the Longbranch Saloon. <br /><br /><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IdbXpZ8lI/AAAAAAAADA8/S615FXpzw3U/s512/IMG_0140.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IdbXpZ8lI/AAAAAAAADA8/S615FXpzw3U/s512/IMG_0140.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><em>Replicating <a href="http://ryanhokanson.blogspot.com/2010/04/pioneer-peak.html">Ryan Hokanson's </a>signature top of the couloir shot!</em><br /><br /><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IdYhHCHsI/AAAAAAAADA4/kxtSUaltwCI/s800/IMG_0141.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IdYhHCHsI/AAAAAAAADA4/kxtSUaltwCI/s800/IMG_0141.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><em>Eric staring down a 6000' descent</em><br /><br /><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IeD5XB2PI/AAAAAAAADB4/aU3J2Ukrkw4/s640/IMG_0145.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IeD5XB2PI/AAAAAAAADB4/aU3J2Ukrkw4/s640/IMG_0145.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IddvQYfbI/AAAAAAAADBA/Wk9by9B0uB0/s512/IMG_0146.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IddvQYfbI/AAAAAAAADBA/Wk9by9B0uB0/s512/IMG_0146.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IeGACXzSI/AAAAAAAADB8/CbLGYqHoow4/s640/IMG_0149.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IeGACXzSI/AAAAAAAADB8/CbLGYqHoow4/s640/IMG_0149.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><em>All smiles!</em><br /><br /><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IeIvObhmI/AAAAAAAADCA/AbxylOXiP5c/s640/IMG_0153.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; " src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/S8IeIvObhmI/AAAAAAAADCA/AbxylOXiP5c/s640/IMG_0153.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><em>A Longbranch burger never tasted so good!</em><br /><br />Needless to say, it was probably one of the best ski runs I've ever done and I think Eric would agree!<br /><br />Thanks to Ryan Hokanson for the stoke and Kevin and Cody for the stairway to the top!<br /><br /><em></em><em></em><br />More pics: <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ClintHelander/PioneerPeakSki02#">HERE!</a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-20923685637177995902010-04-05T20:25:00.001-08:002010-04-05T20:26:58.720-08:00Self-VisualizationIn preparation for our upcoming trip to the Revelations this spring, I have been practicing the process of self-visualization. It has been very interesting to work out, repeat and refine this mental rehearsal process.<br /><br />I remember my step-dad talking to me about self-visualization when I played baseball as a kid. He tried to get me to rehearse the process of watching the pitch, following the ball and connecting all the way through with my bat. While I was never a great batter, I always found the process to be very intriguing. <br /><br />Years ago when I first started learning about alpine climbing I picked up Mark Twight's book, Extreme Alpinism. He dedicates a portion of the book to visualization. In it he says "visualization presupposes a belief in your ability to achieve a goal."<br /><br />Trying to read and understand an unknown mountain, route or path is in some ways an aspect of visualization but I think it falls more under the category of planning. <br />Our upcoming expedition into the Revelations is stacked with some pretty heavy objectives. Seth and I have been putting our time in under the weights and we feel physically strong. For the past month though, I have been trying to perform a daily ritual of self-visualization of our intended climbing route, from start to finish. <br /><br />Usually well before work, while enjoying a morning cup of coffee i will put on some non-distracting music and lay on the couch. Then I close my eyes and focus purely on the climb and the mountain. I try to visualize and feel everything...the cold, my breathing, the weight of my pack, snow crystals forming on my face. I try and imagine timeframes for different conditions...how fast will I be able to get to the first alcove if the snow is firm and fast? What if it is deep? How will that change our outcome? Where will the cruxes be and how will I feel when I get to them? Then I try to visualize myself climbing fast, strong and confidently, observing from both the first and third person perspectives. In my head I can look down from half way up a mountain that I have never even touched. <br /><br />In my self-visualization process (which can range from five minutes to well over an hour), I try to focus only on success. I do not stop until I have successfully completed a positive visualization. <br /><br />In my head I have already climbed our intended route a thousand times. I can close my eyes and see a burned in picture of our route. I remember where critical rocks and snow gullies are. I feel 'more' comfortable with our mission. <br /><br />That said, I still have fear and apprehension. I dream about our climb all the time. There is definitely something to be said about the practice of self-visualization. While it didn't make me hit a baseball any better as a kid, I am quite confident that it has prepared me to approach our upcoming climb with more familiarity and a measure of mental fortitude that I have not had on previous endeavors. Some of these times have suddenly become so intense that they feel like a vivid dream. It has been a unique approach to climbing that I've never explored before. I have no doubt that it will make me more comfortable, familiar and most of all, confident on our upcoming climbs in the Revelations.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-69969356692888180152010-03-02T10:19:00.007-09:002010-03-05T09:43:04.759-09:00Spring Ain't Far Away!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTN2PRnA8Dyc7KrwBG7wsfRSZHzSBsL9SxrXYyG7A9yvk4e_ZbQhLJs2auFYWh54jo_d40xxbMI1f8o4SgkcsE0fEABHaMLZV8XwgsiP9uGBOc1R0QZxSn-CwVnfDnkDRAhGAZ3M1DWA/s1600-h/DSC01642+copy.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTN2PRnA8Dyc7KrwBG7wsfRSZHzSBsL9SxrXYyG7A9yvk4e_ZbQhLJs2auFYWh54jo_d40xxbMI1f8o4SgkcsE0fEABHaMLZV8XwgsiP9uGBOc1R0QZxSn-CwVnfDnkDRAhGAZ3M1DWA/s320/DSC01642+copy.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5444124573547018514" /></a><br /><br />Spring ain't far away. And that can mean only one thing...climbing in "The Range!"<br /><br />The whole intense training aspect of climbing has always been something I've more or less taken lightly. A little weight lifting here, some mountain hiking there, throw in some overnight climbs, lots of ice climbing and pulling on plastic and that's about it.<br /><br />As I progress as a climber <span style="font-style:italic;">(see: get beat like a redheaded stepchild in Yosemite, snow turtle up 11,300 in a winter snow pack, and wish I had a little more endurance on day three)</span>...I start to see the importance of a higher level of intensity training.<br /><br />Lucky me! This year a trainer from the Alaska Rock Gym started doing a type of mountain training class twice a week. Now I've done plenty of Mountain Athlete's workouts before, the high intensity circuit training meant to tax the body. It's a lot of mid-to-high rep, high set work outs done in a mostly rapid time frame. <span style="font-style:italic;">See: you end up throwing up in your mouth on occasion.</span><br /><br />The difference between my own personal workouts and the ones put on by Mike Barcom of ARG is huge. <span style="font-style:italic;">See: I'm lazy and weights are heavy.</span> If I do the workout on my own it's easy to take an extra 10-15 seconds and catch a few breaths. When Mike is coaching and you're trying to keep up with some guy next to you, you get a momentum that is hard (for me anyways) to achieve solo.<br /><br />So it's been about five weeks since I've started the group workouts and I can confidently say that I am feeling significantly stronger. In the next five weeks I will step it up significantly, throwing in more and more cardio before tapering off. After all, We fly out to the Revelations in a mere six weeks.<br /><br />On that note...<br /><br />I am absolutely stoked out of my frickin' mind to announce that Seth and I just received the 2010 McNeill-Nott Award. The committee awarded us a grant in the ungodly generous amount of $2000. Words cannot even begin to express our gratitude!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZyibx9ki480-VmWkYemmCd5JZmJiVfbHmL0LIfcwLEdE0jgtqo2cAf7Jspz95hRHsNtlZZuJvFdyCprwAJf6-uUXRHxdGleiLmWxWxoJ54NTcO3ehXklkSbkb9hIsBXfxT1edGxYV1ww/s1600-h/McNeill-nott_logo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 160px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZyibx9ki480-VmWkYemmCd5JZmJiVfbHmL0LIfcwLEdE0jgtqo2cAf7Jspz95hRHsNtlZZuJvFdyCprwAJf6-uUXRHxdGleiLmWxWxoJ54NTcO3ehXklkSbkb9hIsBXfxT1edGxYV1ww/s320/McNeill-nott_logo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5444123060240734354" /></a><br /><br />Without the support of grant programs like this and others, all under the American Alpine Club, there is no way we would be able to afford to pursue our dreams in remote areas. <br /><br />For more information on the grant programs offered by the American Alpine Club, please visit their website: <a href="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/grants">American Alpine Club Grant Program</a>.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-19413170199197850212009-12-01T16:17:00.017-09:002009-12-22T08:56:50.290-09:00Yosemite v2.0 - Red Rocks - Joshua Tree<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJ0aE74rNyOHJVSt28Q1A_bt8Ilnd71dLc4IskqVPgqXxaXCLVC7z9GmPlizOpAIvl8NBqTlKkAjjR4Qu5hQkqwO7f-GfhvUJeUib-PWTVpqdAPkP3aMvNbv9jxN3b2q776Petn6Sh1U/s1600-h/DSC03110.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJ0aE74rNyOHJVSt28Q1A_bt8Ilnd71dLc4IskqVPgqXxaXCLVC7z9GmPlizOpAIvl8NBqTlKkAjjR4Qu5hQkqwO7f-GfhvUJeUib-PWTVpqdAPkP3aMvNbv9jxN3b2q776Petn6Sh1U/s320/DSC03110.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412581205626645346" /></a><br />Days are short. Nights are cold. Sarah Palin has a new book out. These are desperate times. Times not to be reveled in. <br /><br />Let us remember fonder days. Steep granite. The aroma of Manzanitas. Sarah Palin out of the headlines.<br /><br />In mid October while getting my rock on in Yosemite, a massive torrent befell upon us. The majority fled to the safety of bars and other nefarious hideouts, while other brave souls took the tempest head on and remained in Camp 4. The papers proclaimed it "the worst storm in 50 years," perhaps they weren't too far off.<br /><br />Fattened up from five days of Gramma Kluberton's cooking, I returned to the Valley with a fellow named Keegan. We promptly set out to experience the classic Serenity Crack-Sons of Yesterday. Tragically, we were beat out by a hoard of other climbers and only climbed Serenity Crack. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OD1DLbQTZTESddsruQ4dzQqxzESfeUE52H6IJdGkkblXjwGm8eDeQT4MQBCF7LpIHSR5GdVoOGjbdYBd78SIAJKl6NhXHugu7EXDPEfMfuIZClxS6Q3YUsn5aWsHrH0cPLh67Dm6m-s/s1600-h/DSC03227.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OD1DLbQTZTESddsruQ4dzQqxzESfeUE52H6IJdGkkblXjwGm8eDeQT4MQBCF7LpIHSR5GdVoOGjbdYBd78SIAJKl6NhXHugu7EXDPEfMfuIZClxS6Q3YUsn5aWsHrH0cPLh67Dm6m-s/s320/DSC03227.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418112493058468994" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Hanging out under the great Muir Tree</span><br /><br />Next we aimed our eager hands and Stealth rubber soles towards the looming Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. The first half of the route was mine, Keegan would lead the chimneys. Despite an early start, we still had to wait for another party. The climbing was fun, solid and exposed...perfect. Racing light on the long route, we wasted no time. We caught up to the other team and waited a while, swearing to ourselves for lack of headlamps. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-_DCKbvrTkOqy299-E84BDgNBipnTIH2mSUp40K-_NiULipE-U9OIf1vg6SxKWULDMy7x-0ZKS6nDh2FgGyOSPkaRwd2hfFLOBZKYykF1k4fGlvIsstx2bdfYr3Dqh-CrF4zpyei-Ix0/s1600-h/DSC03117.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-_DCKbvrTkOqy299-E84BDgNBipnTIH2mSUp40K-_NiULipE-U9OIf1vg6SxKWULDMy7x-0ZKS6nDh2FgGyOSPkaRwd2hfFLOBZKYykF1k4fGlvIsstx2bdfYr3Dqh-CrF4zpyei-Ix0/s320/DSC03117.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412581219006905378" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;"><center>Keegan inching up the chimneys</center></span><br /><br />On one of the upper pitches, Keegan's gear loop sheared off while he lurched upward. I heard a crashing followed by the terrifying sound of something heavy gaining momentum through the air. My body sucked against the rock and I assumed the turtle position, head low and down. Something exploded into my right hand with a pain that surely signaled shattered bones. It was then surprising to look up and see that I had blindly (and completely accidently I might add) caught the carabiner of nuts after an 80 foot free fall. <br /><br />"DUDE, I dropped the nuts," Keegan said. <br />"Yeah, I know, I caught them," I yelled, cringed forward in pain.<br />"You got them?"<br />"NO, I CAUGHT them, and I think I broke my hand!!!"<br /><br />Minutes later, it was apparent that my hand would be OK, and I seconded the rest of the route. We topped out in the dark and had an interesting descent, to say the least.<br /><br />In the next week we mostly cragged, including routes such as Jamcrack, New Diversions, and the Central Pillar of Frenzy. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSksFIrMob-pZxmwd2U-TFce4_Zajq2URY6mGv5M1b2PQMAJWlghMQ2qJoBh16EGro7YwIDaI3GlaR0DZxX1WkBwbazsoL64qzkK4bGjI9cfatwTi4u83pfenlkOxJn8TrDbH8Yv9DpGY/s1600-h/DSC03383.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSksFIrMob-pZxmwd2U-TFce4_Zajq2URY6mGv5M1b2PQMAJWlghMQ2qJoBh16EGro7YwIDaI3GlaR0DZxX1WkBwbazsoL64qzkK4bGjI9cfatwTi4u83pfenlkOxJn8TrDbH8Yv9DpGY/s320/DSC03383.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418115346330626242" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Joe karate kicking his way through Yosemite</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZiwpgjgX3Lf7J1aYqOtOGpLiV99si8VLPYlg4Zm-Y9I4Hkykh0PBiG9pqDOL614dapd5c6T9t-h3nK4ttJ68GD0YQdhP2sgLFtUU5DZhluMfhyphenhyphenwYg95lxgiZoCexov9VbDarV4ZnVp98/s1600-h/DSC03114.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZiwpgjgX3Lf7J1aYqOtOGpLiV99si8VLPYlg4Zm-Y9I4Hkykh0PBiG9pqDOL614dapd5c6T9t-h3nK4ttJ68GD0YQdhP2sgLFtUU5DZhluMfhyphenhyphenwYg95lxgiZoCexov9VbDarV4ZnVp98/s320/DSC03114.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412581233685970802" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;"><center>Higher Cathedral Spire from the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock</center></span><br />On a beautiful day, Steve, Joe, our new friend Leighan, and I had the time of our lives on the Regular Route of Higher Spire. This route is anything but regular. It was absolutely stellar! The climbing was never too hard, but the exposure and quality of climbing was incredible. The top out was surely one of the coolest summits I've ever been on as well. It was a great day with some of my best buds! <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXpZk4IQXcfhsQnmUoCAhd-bfqxlHdVr3huAChCGYd3TFTCOnVA9uuaU4uJScKXZ-plmIo-QslguOFW4ouu4bhw27s6gEcz69l0vjhYFkXXKv4wIwqb1xtKqBy6pbt6C8Z2RX_BuM8n7I/s1600-h/DSC03142.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXpZk4IQXcfhsQnmUoCAhd-bfqxlHdVr3huAChCGYd3TFTCOnVA9uuaU4uJScKXZ-plmIo-QslguOFW4ouu4bhw27s6gEcz69l0vjhYFkXXKv4wIwqb1xtKqBy6pbt6C8Z2RX_BuM8n7I/s320/DSC03142.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412581243651995682" /></a><center><span style="font-style:italic;">Steve coming up on the Higher Spire</span></center><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjykcQjzAp9t4YBI3rpdlK3rFzIf6E3pydkIRa2HoJcby9JVE3jMQVxrNDrOOflmwWNG7Cz2hjjyhtwlWmVi5U4urfaLr4VcEhCoIHpTs4NXYTXVv90BMtmXn6Bmk0gYrrt8cmCPK-lZKA/s1600-h/DSC03170.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjykcQjzAp9t4YBI3rpdlK3rFzIf6E3pydkIRa2HoJcby9JVE3jMQVxrNDrOOflmwWNG7Cz2hjjyhtwlWmVi5U4urfaLr4VcEhCoIHpTs4NXYTXVv90BMtmXn6Bmk0gYrrt8cmCPK-lZKA/s320/DSC03170.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418112486277273202" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Great view from the top of Higher Spire</span><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjow0LxDQ-PHFZ8wE4kAZoAht8rbienuaq9f94ta3pbtCE6YLJryyYTiqvg-4Ou1kNRhajYtlzoz51ySu3gzHeHJ-WhpSn0YNjihAp0YiDMvrwaPjJn1qslvslg1_p5pHYDKea1k5XR1u0/s1600-h/DSC03167.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjow0LxDQ-PHFZ8wE4kAZoAht8rbienuaq9f94ta3pbtCE6YLJryyYTiqvg-4Ou1kNRhajYtlzoz51ySu3gzHeHJ-WhpSn0YNjihAp0YiDMvrwaPjJn1qslvslg1_p5pHYDKea1k5XR1u0/s320/DSC03167.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418112477647344162" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Awesome climb, awesome summit, awesome friends!</span><br /><br />Steve and I checked out Leaning Tower one day and practiced some aiding. Talk about exposure! We linked the first two pitches, so by the end I was certainly running low on biners. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTvtNre0RUOTO_InxVjNaMBLnfPBlLvsvM4spqFGt3Cw1xhxTDB11Z93w8y0wlTMEPzQBWUzEK8tyVXPE7MF-RHIUopVhUEWqLada5rHwDuKqblRhfuFahyphenhyphenMQsPkuicNwpwS_wpVNEG4/s1600-h/DSC03261.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTvtNre0RUOTO_InxVjNaMBLnfPBlLvsvM4spqFGt3Cw1xhxTDB11Z93w8y0wlTMEPzQBWUzEK8tyVXPE7MF-RHIUopVhUEWqLada5rHwDuKqblRhfuFahyphenhyphenMQsPkuicNwpwS_wpVNEG4/s320/DSC03261.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418112511642858770" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Looking down on the first few pitches of leaning Tower</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_z71c0SLv4h4W-5H7W6e_qDAF4vKpSAWDfaVwqvvegEc6WFIlza-_84Enh4fFcg2iGoJ8Q-oq-7m3YbKxtUQc-dDLnWaPUjd_notZmVO02B0gxooh3nUrio7duIzxB6hKpqJ6nAJaNA/s1600-h/DSC03305.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_z71c0SLv4h4W-5H7W6e_qDAF4vKpSAWDfaVwqvvegEc6WFIlza-_84Enh4fFcg2iGoJ8Q-oq-7m3YbKxtUQc-dDLnWaPUjd_notZmVO02B0gxooh3nUrio7duIzxB6hKpqJ6nAJaNA/s320/DSC03305.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418115335730315346" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGuIYSOW133C6ETFd7dfVeo9uPSL0Lea1xYM1Pc3s_bfB_aIzX_-QcQcRzVvaKngVRPj4klehgvbYxDml7wnML47F1dpLtkdMEDp0VqY6AJJhsqd0ib96waMthBa_x-PXfvkK-dUXEVM/s1600-h/DSC03301.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGuIYSOW133C6ETFd7dfVeo9uPSL0Lea1xYM1Pc3s_bfB_aIzX_-QcQcRzVvaKngVRPj4klehgvbYxDml7wnML47F1dpLtkdMEDp0VqY6AJJhsqd0ib96waMthBa_x-PXfvkK-dUXEVM/s320/DSC03301.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418115330522090658" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRokdSeRFJrpN9xS8extng3-bDlfJK-5db37RIXN2TjxFVe5evA8_cptSwJnmVhHpa8nYkREYipEDWRnf6VkNuAkLnV4hpYRB3TKreQuaVpRKByopX9-Wla2cFO6OB6X6SJezw9FWEKh0/s1600-h/DSC03291.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRokdSeRFJrpN9xS8extng3-bDlfJK-5db37RIXN2TjxFVe5evA8_cptSwJnmVhHpa8nYkREYipEDWRnf6VkNuAkLnV4hpYRB3TKreQuaVpRKByopX9-Wla2cFO6OB6X6SJezw9FWEKh0/s320/DSC03291.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418115320355835810" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7VmpfycA2o2utjQQXkF1ynHVWIpeIumO8z0KM4IhDJQtQl1OI8wyJESZSXS47MbUhyb9ziRWDe_0uL7HxGnEOxw5EVUdjltUtSsQmNT4UF6me9Chd9to4TE4SUqVP-6G_5QJQdkuPqiw/s1600-h/DSC03285.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7VmpfycA2o2utjQQXkF1ynHVWIpeIumO8z0KM4IhDJQtQl1OI8wyJESZSXS47MbUhyb9ziRWDe_0uL7HxGnEOxw5EVUdjltUtSsQmNT4UF6me9Chd9to4TE4SUqVP-6G_5QJQdkuPqiw/s320/DSC03285.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418115312848358642" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEa_Kqy9bJ4yc-mmAu8Ve-3i1wrR2h1XDBUTN-MBB0bEtxx240SF36IBMBvFJzt6VckGcN4XqXFPYrknogsZGa6XMdVUbu4nDnYDzPlqcZbFa6B7BWDLQWvldE-sQ3SemxHeItJ3-PwVI/s1600-h/DSC03253.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEa_Kqy9bJ4yc-mmAu8Ve-3i1wrR2h1XDBUTN-MBB0bEtxx240SF36IBMBvFJzt6VckGcN4XqXFPYrknogsZGa6XMdVUbu4nDnYDzPlqcZbFa6B7BWDLQWvldE-sQ3SemxHeItJ3-PwVI/s320/DSC03253.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418112505260225058" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A fun 5.10 near the Arches</span><br /><br />Joe took off for Peru, then Steve and I closed our Yosemite trip by running up the Snake Dike on Half Dome with our two British friends Matt and Sam.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVNAdkd0AE6e6vDo2wXtq9J7qGTWVYAPe0akmxnD7m3GhTAmkFQYfJW0GHmWIKmzW9fdtlcD5AakqoKJgFas-hEPRVFuSWZI2lFp3Ui0b-LHGMOpJUK6QSaFOeEegqQlawm3VCnF-AUFI/s1600-h/DSC03431.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVNAdkd0AE6e6vDo2wXtq9J7qGTWVYAPe0akmxnD7m3GhTAmkFQYfJW0GHmWIKmzW9fdtlcD5AakqoKJgFas-hEPRVFuSWZI2lFp3Ui0b-LHGMOpJUK6QSaFOeEegqQlawm3VCnF-AUFI/s320/DSC03431.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418117216086919746" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVKM0QcCmL8mVaQVduZpf5s-piPaIRe7QcBw8FFgjGQ5h3vESRp3VzMFkKpVeETN0330sjkWTee7et8X8nYshvVXd4DtqA_x8xE-JMY4WpnwRhVly2gW2eOjDEV28o7RpqbGeVhUrEDI/s1600-h/DSC03423.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVKM0QcCmL8mVaQVduZpf5s-piPaIRe7QcBw8FFgjGQ5h3vESRp3VzMFkKpVeETN0330sjkWTee7et8X8nYshvVXd4DtqA_x8xE-JMY4WpnwRhVly2gW2eOjDEV28o7RpqbGeVhUrEDI/s320/DSC03423.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418117204116561362" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSBQmcLtr5C4jqemgX4dfHfi9GdqmuDukYse_WBG7_7DezQ4O6kS-McigqyqGNBACfc5jyoSsiHMDcc0H4K3KMt-HFiLdk99NIph6-cE6fj3nWcapa62vqcja7RwMUHlRcr-Kn2QN9l0/s1600-h/DSC03417.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSBQmcLtr5C4jqemgX4dfHfi9GdqmuDukYse_WBG7_7DezQ4O6kS-McigqyqGNBACfc5jyoSsiHMDcc0H4K3KMt-HFiLdk99NIph6-cE6fj3nWcapa62vqcja7RwMUHlRcr-Kn2QN9l0/s320/DSC03417.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418117192950941266" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL9GcPTEYx70r3xp2jRdoJgV23ogRBmG8qPqsQHddl3fQ4Je7h9-8LUR2150ccbPOQ7pKmtzIWjVuK7P5SFvSrgHGhhIZqZxj22-ccyhLVkEKvoBrkqt4fP_52ui9Dl6nTEyfnicZ3fRw/s1600-h/DSC03414.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL9GcPTEYx70r3xp2jRdoJgV23ogRBmG8qPqsQHddl3fQ4Je7h9-8LUR2150ccbPOQ7pKmtzIWjVuK7P5SFvSrgHGhhIZqZxj22-ccyhLVkEKvoBrkqt4fP_52ui9Dl6nTEyfnicZ3fRw/s320/DSC03414.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418117182570917106" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkYAvzodRR9FKBRlpVDr3oLvXVqe4PJb46-jaPNCCVn9qc17AWctjRUBtAIL5QQfVYuG0LyYaxDoCoCfRQHTkGyH_urbW2NtqBr2HIROtl4uitQ__wV_23eFiYOqOiMlcPCN_UyeGm8qc/s1600-h/DSC03409.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkYAvzodRR9FKBRlpVDr3oLvXVqe4PJb46-jaPNCCVn9qc17AWctjRUBtAIL5QQfVYuG0LyYaxDoCoCfRQHTkGyH_urbW2NtqBr2HIROtl4uitQ__wV_23eFiYOqOiMlcPCN_UyeGm8qc/s320/DSC03409.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418117175253971266" /></a><br /><br />We packed our stuff and put the pedal to the metal towards Red Rock in Nevada.<br />We didn't get on anything too big. More than anything, we wanted to recon for next time. Still, we got in some great cragging and did take a jaunt up the ultra classic Jorge and Joanne Urioste classic, Frogland.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg09B1Zb6NZeds6fMnSECvn-09qSoslXL_Qe1OVoN_0Mj5G-toDjDOHYxGt2F6wd-4KU5dVkTjuiQJKq7VwLlV5dtMMZTWVHMWpd8wm4tVMKt-EdXAI0zrQH8wK7Zu-VtRTlNjre7a-_tU/s1600-h/DSC03456.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg09B1Zb6NZeds6fMnSECvn-09qSoslXL_Qe1OVoN_0Mj5G-toDjDOHYxGt2F6wd-4KU5dVkTjuiQJKq7VwLlV5dtMMZTWVHMWpd8wm4tVMKt-EdXAI0zrQH8wK7Zu-VtRTlNjre7a-_tU/s320/DSC03456.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418119448990110018" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Mister Master, a crazy overhanging Red Rock crack</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VWFPb9JRGd6qU0WtGqec8o7xdkPYkKq7i1QWfzMLCp92eKW-XdnAkdZIbuteSPtD-3xwt9iJqSft1IiJcS8NlYwFu_RSUceVLJCMghDFNrSY8ZuP3Xd2w4_HrP3af8tUV8xg0iVyZ7c/s1600-h/DSC03442.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VWFPb9JRGd6qU0WtGqec8o7xdkPYkKq7i1QWfzMLCp92eKW-XdnAkdZIbuteSPtD-3xwt9iJqSft1IiJcS8NlYwFu_RSUceVLJCMghDFNrSY8ZuP3Xd2w4_HrP3af8tUV8xg0iVyZ7c/s320/DSC03442.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5418120469329163698" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Ragged Edges Cliff</span><br /><br />Steve had a date with the Palisades and I still had a week left in my trip. Being the good friend he is, he drove me down to Joshua Tree and even got in a good day of climbing.<br /><br />Alaskan local Paul Turecki finished my tattoo one day.<br /><br />After a week of phenomenal climbing, it was time to head back to Alaska. Luck was on my side and I scored a ride all the way to San Fransisco with a nice guy named Mitch.<br /><br />Of course, every trip has its ups and downs. You fail on some objectives and don't get on others you had wanted to. This trip, I pushed my boundaries and became a much better climber. As importantly, I got to experience it with some of my best friends and ultimately, that is what is really important to me in climbing.<br /><br />Until next ROCKtober...Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-48197829358286359732009-10-13T11:06:00.015-08:002009-10-20T08:56:05.411-08:00Yosemite 2009 - Volume One<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDK5ex-kZpBFTrOcDK8ldGtBmW9YMTKrs3l0FvipIG0qM_lKryEOOtz4ZqD3iwpobUBhnHOt_3c4owo6zY05Bp6JSpiCqZzmyQwbWN7ORwGKhg8v-HVPI9Qb5PWfYve7a6tKCA2FTsXS4/s1600-h/PA110389.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDK5ex-kZpBFTrOcDK8ldGtBmW9YMTKrs3l0FvipIG0qM_lKryEOOtz4ZqD3iwpobUBhnHOt_3c4owo6zY05Bp6JSpiCqZzmyQwbWN7ORwGKhg8v-HVPI9Qb5PWfYve7a6tKCA2FTsXS4/s320/PA110389.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392192349217352418" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65hmxnYgZvKfZT0ymhXFrWxF31YfVWLLp3J60TqYzznNhWVPi39Ml-TYx82mPe8L1PvE5RJ-evyRw3BRWWBFKheQJho0hxL3vyDmPb9GTmHv4AVsWpwrEHEmBKH0BNuMH7olw8PsB7no/s1600-h/PA090334.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65hmxnYgZvKfZT0ymhXFrWxF31YfVWLLp3J60TqYzznNhWVPi39Ml-TYx82mPe8L1PvE5RJ-evyRw3BRWWBFKheQJho0hxL3vyDmPb9GTmHv4AVsWpwrEHEmBKH0BNuMH7olw8PsB7no/s320/PA090334.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392192347035961474" /></a><br /><br />Ahhh Yosemite. <br /><br />What a captivating and mystical place! A place that has and will continue to be an annual pilgrimage. <br /><br />Having learned many of the intricacies and tricks of Yosemite last year, this trip has been a little easier. After camping on an old forest service road just outside of the park, Joe and I drove in at 3 AM and bivvied at the Camp Four kiosk. Since Camp Four is the only walk-in campground in the valley, it is a first-come first-served site only. I learned last year that it is imperative to get their early, since only the first few people get in during the crowded season. We set up shop under the kiosk at 4:15AM and it wasn't long before other hopefuls were waiting behind us. <br /><br />Unfortunately my camera battery was dead for this initial time so there are very few shots of my friends. All photos came from them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5zNz3cz66YlUeb1_VN4P8_eUN1fKvBxFQz8nljxlnEzWQ7dMs-9XAJfnH6rO0maC_UJggjeHEGx0iZWbvOYODxk3jBQR-XY9MIpsQDjoBsyEN4odzelITCJ9eRT18r26Xo27pwHbUCY/s1600-h/PA120415.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5zNz3cz66YlUeb1_VN4P8_eUN1fKvBxFQz8nljxlnEzWQ7dMs-9XAJfnH6rO0maC_UJggjeHEGx0iZWbvOYODxk3jBQR-XY9MIpsQDjoBsyEN4odzelITCJ9eRT18r26Xo27pwHbUCY/s320/PA120415.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392191083968691698" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A lone climber waiting to gain access to the Shangri La that is Camp 4.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RCYQFM5Udlo0dHMzHCwR2xzbWR1H7hNx-Z7NRt1XjgzbAZQuIjd5goYXWZn3mXQsiXbzYoqK43TZ7uHDyuOuT4YAqHVr9Eoh-W_Vx33h1S4qS7Pb1Z0leRCWkvSkzkwqTJTgXIkUVGU/s1600-h/PA060267.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RCYQFM5Udlo0dHMzHCwR2xzbWR1H7hNx-Z7NRt1XjgzbAZQuIjd5goYXWZn3mXQsiXbzYoqK43TZ7uHDyuOuT4YAqHVr9Eoh-W_Vx33h1S4qS7Pb1Z0leRCWkvSkzkwqTJTgXIkUVGU/s320/PA060267.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392192337395256834" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Camp 4, the central climber hangout in Yosemite.</span><br /><br />After we registered and set up camp, it was off to the crags. A few warm ups on the Swan Slabs had us ready to tackle Commitment, an ubber classic Jim Bridwell 5.9 three-pitch climb at the Five Open Books. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-76qji8nkdZ22o8lXfy7DPGbwDJpfloyUBVyxT6xKF0_06pQUh1j9pBOMCk7D4oWdcazxJQIVpZlFgv7leArDaAX2NWNviDr4aMbaaU7HDVE38kfu4T8WyF_hA8MapDpIMaphNzhhUaE/s1600-h/PA060270.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-76qji8nkdZ22o8lXfy7DPGbwDJpfloyUBVyxT6xKF0_06pQUh1j9pBOMCk7D4oWdcazxJQIVpZlFgv7leArDaAX2NWNviDr4aMbaaU7HDVE38kfu4T8WyF_hA8MapDpIMaphNzhhUaE/s320/PA060270.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392185818936235218" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqbxxzQpGHmfcxKjDUxtbjPuvLcZpYO6O7BAPapNRumYXcpIsg4JbJPjCTiALCeKCEE4Mh2VjxS__PLXHsG_q0vF8hq-97vZB3jWhpNyp1SnX-PDdEwWLWJ0HIe_NmoF5vZITxxHC6u0/s1600-h/PA060280.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqbxxzQpGHmfcxKjDUxtbjPuvLcZpYO6O7BAPapNRumYXcpIsg4JbJPjCTiALCeKCEE4Mh2VjxS__PLXHsG_q0vF8hq-97vZB3jWhpNyp1SnX-PDdEwWLWJ0HIe_NmoF5vZITxxHC6u0/s320/PA060280.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392185831953793794" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Leading the crux pitch of Commitment</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpc2bJ2Dscrj2Fws16eD0YdvJVtWH2xQTH3_XQe2KsAQDTh6xt9OYt-Gz0D6Dm4NAgqduxMzXPeQ-2S2-iN_8KH9G33uBsNGFRMEdYDe6SwPpkYFRHZoM_wAI6aAKuigVky-VmIyCTDM/s1600-h/PA060277.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpc2bJ2Dscrj2Fws16eD0YdvJVtWH2xQTH3_XQe2KsAQDTh6xt9OYt-Gz0D6Dm4NAgqduxMzXPeQ-2S2-iN_8KH9G33uBsNGFRMEdYDe6SwPpkYFRHZoM_wAI6aAKuigVky-VmIyCTDM/s320/PA060277.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392185824337549186" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Joe, stoked as always!</span><br /><br />We then met up with fellow Alaskans Rob and Lee to plan our climb the following day on the South Face of Washington's Column. An early morning jaunt to the base got our blood flowing. As expected, the route was already occupied by other hopeful senders and we were third in line despite our early awakening. Rob decided to bail, so Lee and I continued as a green duo. We made it to Dinner Ledge by late afternoon after MUCH waiting for other parties ahead of us. Optimally we would have fixed lines to pitch five, but we only fixed to the top of pitch four, just above the reachy bolt ladder on the Kor Roof.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1ZI-gSVjfpTRepraKbDY1qTHMfD6OV-fFQHd3beYDmvFK7hDXTGUrPvZQYNHQ0hSRrB3w7FQLsY_-D2X-8XG1xJYxrC5p_Vbj6hWRYW3eOo-DOrHdvJWXrdozT07N7xGGNVLeWipDiE/s1600-h/7424_729866309978_7725528_42158068_5046745_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1ZI-gSVjfpTRepraKbDY1qTHMfD6OV-fFQHd3beYDmvFK7hDXTGUrPvZQYNHQ0hSRrB3w7FQLsY_-D2X-8XG1xJYxrC5p_Vbj6hWRYW3eOo-DOrHdvJWXrdozT07N7xGGNVLeWipDiE/s320/7424_729866309978_7725528_42158068_5046745_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394720146468959266" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Improvised poop tube. Don't ask.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc8fIPSTD2eskLYrx2wOrAyWbvAwhLs15_g-WdYyLWfkSMpVkVELGtM4oS8tjXEttnHsdkF61ZwXaN5ZsODXKRwNW0S8tCR_j4TeJDHINP9GieiYBMISbLbcZXAUzNHTiWrxyw8mIG9tA/s1600-h/7424_729866270058_7725528_42158060_6724615_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc8fIPSTD2eskLYrx2wOrAyWbvAwhLs15_g-WdYyLWfkSMpVkVELGtM4oS8tjXEttnHsdkF61ZwXaN5ZsODXKRwNW0S8tCR_j4TeJDHINP9GieiYBMISbLbcZXAUzNHTiWrxyw8mIG9tA/s320/7424_729866270058_7725528_42158060_6724615_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394720138927221794" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGhAMCVnzRaPQHXctWDko3l5ZJv_Fn1OCtqaOG4bdRk7qIRwruLzweggZntwIRlSPM4yCOVAXbNwcn95D7NzqzBO6FeTHfr7MAZY6X3IsIsLA9Fe9da7N00Q3FpPQ1GwOzLVGF_1keSo/s1600-h/7424_729866314968_7725528_42158069_8131388_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGhAMCVnzRaPQHXctWDko3l5ZJv_Fn1OCtqaOG4bdRk7qIRwruLzweggZntwIRlSPM4yCOVAXbNwcn95D7NzqzBO6FeTHfr7MAZY6X3IsIsLA9Fe9da7N00Q3FpPQ1GwOzLVGF_1keSo/s320/7424_729866314968_7725528_42158069_8131388_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394720152191837314" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Starting the second pitch</span><br /><br />The next morning we awoke early but still had to wait in line for the party ahead of us to progress. The haul bag was left at the ledge and we pushed for another three pitches before calling it a day and retreating. It was just too slow and crowded. Oh well, we had a lot of fun and the climbing was exciting without being too hard. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWx2KQJZ3Wt0nyl2MAwuONDwfgzfFcUdSQZglLjJHk1evH_plsJqIB7weRxiuqV8E1XdSQOXLtDA1URpwMvwJrXWLQ_tA19nXHLIuPEdBiqlO7SQ58qj7EeyGZ2G86Fj4wBVfbuIP4TZ8/s1600-h/7424_729866334928_7725528_42158072_1599210_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWx2KQJZ3Wt0nyl2MAwuONDwfgzfFcUdSQZglLjJHk1evH_plsJqIB7weRxiuqV8E1XdSQOXLtDA1URpwMvwJrXWLQ_tA19nXHLIuPEdBiqlO7SQ58qj7EeyGZ2G86Fj4wBVfbuIP4TZ8/s320/7424_729866334928_7725528_42158072_1599210_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394720173959340754" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seconding through the Kor Roof</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJ-NZop8mp9IgLWa8RBLKQuO61ZTZbGEX8ICSbCsxzIw33MHexxVEn-m0hrMFc-E-viLFM6zUQaodImb44xNpSISab9jAFFrWfDWjR60MAMtCP8b8RPLNO-JgS0MfZ7AK-2DFyX3MHzU/s1600-h/7424_729866324948_7725528_42158071_615470_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJ-NZop8mp9IgLWa8RBLKQuO61ZTZbGEX8ICSbCsxzIw33MHexxVEn-m0hrMFc-E-viLFM6zUQaodImb44xNpSISab9jAFFrWfDWjR60MAMtCP8b8RPLNO-JgS0MfZ7AK-2DFyX3MHzU/s320/7424_729866324948_7725528_42158071_615470_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394720167766632098" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhgUd8K7mXnq1yMe0ZKnD8TlIY4C7B5OmWg-4V2tUztGMsfqfx_H67sskIU15fuUlndhyphenhyphenpqLkuub3wvcPgATCY6oIz70EdYp3pUgHjW6cUxsEeDm8k6H2gmughNjKtCUgRZh7jLVAh7Y/s1600-h/7424_729866344908_7725528_42158074_4962096_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhgUd8K7mXnq1yMe0ZKnD8TlIY4C7B5OmWg-4V2tUztGMsfqfx_H67sskIU15fuUlndhyphenhyphenpqLkuub3wvcPgATCY6oIz70EdYp3pUgHjW6cUxsEeDm8k6H2gmughNjKtCUgRZh7jLVAh7Y/s320/7424_729866344908_7725528_42158074_4962096_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394726114709440610" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rWM4T7pzlYvX7xErSvpvKu3nbiHl2nGdXh9p3wbPuDhf_3qOdfbrSB6kumZz7gyOl8pU3WCE1FpudwuXzunc0Y05aZYxU44svavmLaqKhkTyI3dxhP5XjZZUuuQtBjYrmvMawWmXqk0/s1600-h/7424_729866354888_7725528_42158076_5565314_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rWM4T7pzlYvX7xErSvpvKu3nbiHl2nGdXh9p3wbPuDhf_3qOdfbrSB6kumZz7gyOl8pU3WCE1FpudwuXzunc0Y05aZYxU44svavmLaqKhkTyI3dxhP5XjZZUuuQtBjYrmvMawWmXqk0/s320/7424_729866354888_7725528_42158076_5565314_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394726130082565650" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Jugging pitch six</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzzUYh0352gSVKu0DzkI8qE_d1bsj_f7u-OfZKL2kDepmaz-xOgXorn1VPUglaoBkGvNFMnd7xzADbnoZam4WTokVYq8cQ5DK5A4TJKsZ9zY1s3awnLtry_ifzYFW4eIT6NNq-7DRtcY/s1600-h/7424_729866349898_7725528_42158075_2981589_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzzUYh0352gSVKu0DzkI8qE_d1bsj_f7u-OfZKL2kDepmaz-xOgXorn1VPUglaoBkGvNFMnd7xzADbnoZam4WTokVYq8cQ5DK5A4TJKsZ9zY1s3awnLtry_ifzYFW4eIT6NNq-7DRtcY/s320/7424_729866349898_7725528_42158075_2981589_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394726121143810802" /></a><br /><br />The next day I basically chillaxified and hung out for most of the morning. In the afternoon I was doggedly convinced to climb Nutcracker with Joe and some other guys. I wasn't at all stoked, but slowly got in the mood as the climb progressed. Joe was super new to the trad game but led the crux fifth pitch mantel with ease. He did however drop one of my favorite pieces, the #2 Black Diamond C3, and it fell all the way to the base of the climb. Tisk Tisk, Joe!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQxzYbLQb5-bQTf70ybZOTqoOj9EBQsJL8DcKNFtwdO8cCGR2T7j6bmmJYLWe6h66YODncXHzEi7P9yHMdmB16mbnlpFMGhCBWkkG-JM5cKcewUGpq9Tc4Vh5-6-mcSUbPloSOQ-Dyok/s1600-h/PA090349.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQxzYbLQb5-bQTf70ybZOTqoOj9EBQsJL8DcKNFtwdO8cCGR2T7j6bmmJYLWe6h66YODncXHzEi7P9yHMdmB16mbnlpFMGhCBWkkG-JM5cKcewUGpq9Tc4Vh5-6-mcSUbPloSOQ-Dyok/s320/PA090349.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392188072349747186" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEfmaRHFPJJsPk1uAOUCBZtARLxKuQloU4Mp2ZfxPebxeT6JIZWzlQK0UPzISfgFe18PFvHdYC1WvUMXNyFKaD_ABtBEtmUW3rrEnRx_ZVSzWdmzWUe0EBrdNM9eQNOTKunEi2_43VM-Y/s1600-h/PA090336.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEfmaRHFPJJsPk1uAOUCBZtARLxKuQloU4Mp2ZfxPebxeT6JIZWzlQK0UPzISfgFe18PFvHdYC1WvUMXNyFKaD_ABtBEtmUW3rrEnRx_ZVSzWdmzWUe0EBrdNM9eQNOTKunEi2_43VM-Y/s320/PA090336.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392188064612139954" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDj03a9N7VN9ZlYpQ67cFIBPBmvkq_-V_J9YEEqH4INVMaMy-leIAUprDt3yWvN7Vi48Ib37q0PbeiUphNOD8uDc9Hq65EnIsZm7Qs9FuCyhfxl6WZREEA2uMokqH0f2bjKEgqeBo0Wg/s1600-h/PA090326.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDj03a9N7VN9ZlYpQ67cFIBPBmvkq_-V_J9YEEqH4INVMaMy-leIAUprDt3yWvN7Vi48Ib37q0PbeiUphNOD8uDc9Hq65EnIsZm7Qs9FuCyhfxl6WZREEA2uMokqH0f2bjKEgqeBo0Wg/s320/PA090326.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392185849124277602" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ruZYuMGK5kL95TXH5ON9VrRkgoar_DJ4geW7B-VzTu1SlE8AFoPPYm1WBk-ZMib9VPk4zcx-Z7BbPJmvL4MCeFVVwF9bmy-_6oy2wNgh8n_fycWJJxZBRuhgCbYz9mj610_Dfnir-mM/s1600-h/PA100357.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ruZYuMGK5kL95TXH5ON9VrRkgoar_DJ4geW7B-VzTu1SlE8AFoPPYm1WBk-ZMib9VPk4zcx-Z7BbPJmvL4MCeFVVwF9bmy-_6oy2wNgh8n_fycWJJxZBRuhgCbYz9mj610_Dfnir-mM/s320/PA100357.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392188081190704434" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The following morning we returned and were miraculously able to find it after hiking up a 3rd class gully. Booty!</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh0O-RPkfYkHA0hBFjokzPm52e-gE8GPlbEk6uh42mbCsxKS3Q-cc1tzofR2xnwoj9_xHLAAwMdiSh5LzsqNndcROyV21JR2SWnqhHwaMH4l5jWLiNZUsTyscjxMTbOKNRwu__4kHugSU/s1600-h/PA090321.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh0O-RPkfYkHA0hBFjokzPm52e-gE8GPlbEk6uh42mbCsxKS3Q-cc1tzofR2xnwoj9_xHLAAwMdiSh5LzsqNndcROyV21JR2SWnqhHwaMH4l5jWLiNZUsTyscjxMTbOKNRwu__4kHugSU/s320/PA090321.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392185839932544562" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A friend had his car broken into by a hungry bear. Bust out the duct tape!</span><br /><br />After that I took Joe to another ubber classic, Bishop's Terrace. It might be my favorite 5.8 in the world! He seconded it like it was cake! Strong guy, that Joe! He quickly got the hand jam technique down and made it look easy. <br /><br />Feeling strong and situated, Joe and I aimed our rope and rack at a bigger piece of stone, the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.<br /><br />Another early start and we were at the base by 7:30. We waited for the other even-earlier birds to get ahead and were on route by 8:30. Joe linked pitches one and two, then I linked three and four. Joe nailed the fifth pitch bolt ladder to 5.9 section...then dropped his belay device! JOE!!!! <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UbEMV4_Gnp0UGUOeImb0EHkKyUcQHCHEpIzPxkvc8u2WWigjp_M5kSXW5RnOnb_uWHSZG5IblF8y79uRv2o9HAcbt_J2pZ_xsU-b7rI1Vb-WsZVWJ95YFEqGTOhK-WYuUSvbf2L_5-M/s1600-h/PA110374.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UbEMV4_Gnp0UGUOeImb0EHkKyUcQHCHEpIzPxkvc8u2WWigjp_M5kSXW5RnOnb_uWHSZG5IblF8y79uRv2o9HAcbt_J2pZ_xsU-b7rI1Vb-WsZVWJ95YFEqGTOhK-WYuUSvbf2L_5-M/s320/PA110374.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392188095683690306" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE75LhJgyRX2Rowgkf5-O08WScwHW7lmCyDwJQsdMv0eL9JKReRvZR-7ITX4Z6qpoXfqXQPU1VB1mLrYev0bU039G4Nkym0dJ3vT1QXoHyQ3AB0rfjf5kTy1B8PitPVZ4b1uL3DkXxKSA/s1600-h/PA110370.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE75LhJgyRX2Rowgkf5-O08WScwHW7lmCyDwJQsdMv0eL9JKReRvZR-7ITX4Z6qpoXfqXQPU1VB1mLrYev0bU039G4Nkym0dJ3vT1QXoHyQ3AB0rfjf5kTy1B8PitPVZ4b1uL3DkXxKSA/s320/PA110370.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392188087150355362" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsftrJQu5XDZXFquoFUzYTINReT14ntyepPSmw0hFfZswf3tsKojStFYiSlNJlcM0je41tECFp0huKsGtwOIUq0brzreiA1TpH1GqRfBImUEVdUfuGWzPp0m6x698ZLlXok0fy9JKmhx0/s1600-h/PA110393.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsftrJQu5XDZXFquoFUzYTINReT14ntyepPSmw0hFfZswf3tsKojStFYiSlNJlcM0je41tECFp0huKsGtwOIUq0brzreiA1TpH1GqRfBImUEVdUfuGWzPp0m6x698ZLlXok0fy9JKmhx0/s320/PA110393.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392189618958507010" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTd_MQfMZotyjQ9MjCI6ZLwMQnx0RJomj8snpb-zJJbLUtFTTReBkriyZQcNOT9It4r04bQloaPwPTGCuo0WEDJ91Vj6Z436Q6wRsZ7scSNxbj5X6VZiN0ieD6S2qBpj0YAs3qCUK3-E/s1600-h/PA110384.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTd_MQfMZotyjQ9MjCI6ZLwMQnx0RJomj8snpb-zJJbLUtFTTReBkriyZQcNOT9It4r04bQloaPwPTGCuo0WEDJ91Vj6Z436Q6wRsZ7scSNxbj5X6VZiN0ieD6S2qBpj0YAs3qCUK3-E/s320/PA110384.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392189610641061874" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_hBePJivoR9DM1FZsGhN0dbYlkgNKYIzF7I5ZwvJ7_9mL9qTcaT5RexcLE4TdNynJV0Xy6SWVUtqK34yf3T1q0kqtsdfrJr4kk8Yp4Tze_Vyx4pK8_O_xRLaOWZt-bE1-_Hw-7exeCo/s1600-h/PA110382.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_hBePJivoR9DM1FZsGhN0dbYlkgNKYIzF7I5ZwvJ7_9mL9qTcaT5RexcLE4TdNynJV0Xy6SWVUtqK34yf3T1q0kqtsdfrJr4kk8Yp4Tze_Vyx4pK8_O_xRLaOWZt-bE1-_Hw-7exeCo/s320/PA110382.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392189601572084706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXFUnoETITNV0WAsqEw2EEb2_iVXyA5Zonvlq38OnueDcSGAOngCNRCmmYtxlPdUOknSHmFe0L88eo2v8YhYvdG-gr_fwL6bWxKC50JOgzlrWWsXM3hl1LG-TodfhMAoaOvG1V7hPzHrI/s1600-h/PA110381.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXFUnoETITNV0WAsqEw2EEb2_iVXyA5Zonvlq38OnueDcSGAOngCNRCmmYtxlPdUOknSHmFe0L88eo2v8YhYvdG-gr_fwL6bWxKC50JOgzlrWWsXM3hl1LG-TodfhMAoaOvG1V7hPzHrI/s320/PA110381.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392189595597330914" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnPAkSKdhUXmlvCPg3vqTdoxK2kDNbkVunmBfo8cupK2NyOhLPlUWKyaUQUMW80QfYQWQlndv0KW6AHfQz6IK3dGhgVX20tnkrx0KugieOCj2LhLCmmTza4qh6CwrMVGy9_IiyCWESijw/s1600-h/PA110379.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnPAkSKdhUXmlvCPg3vqTdoxK2kDNbkVunmBfo8cupK2NyOhLPlUWKyaUQUMW80QfYQWQlndv0KW6AHfQz6IK3dGhgVX20tnkrx0KugieOCj2LhLCmmTza4qh6CwrMVGy9_IiyCWESijw/s320/PA110379.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392189590056773458" /></a><br /><br />We continued to the top with a bunch of stellar 5.7/5.8 pitches on superb rock. El Cap dominated the skyline behind us the entire time and the weather was utterly perfect. A few minutes looking for the descent trail and we were plodding down the mighty chasm between Higher and Middle Cathedral rocks. Three rappels brought us back to the trail and from there it was just a short walk to the car. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25vbVoNjWqYsMnKpyARhpTH-qsOuBUWoyeLE7KXi_fP1xFVALM6fi36XUlE9L2cVjCsPAiPRWFKFy0AfwN8h3liDfHHWSplNEgjnL6RfbOK4PPQg_T0VF496-mlX8dSKF0SesgHcFgV8/s1600-h/PA110394.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25vbVoNjWqYsMnKpyARhpTH-qsOuBUWoyeLE7KXi_fP1xFVALM6fi36XUlE9L2cVjCsPAiPRWFKFy0AfwN8h3liDfHHWSplNEgjnL6RfbOK4PPQg_T0VF496-mlX8dSKF0SesgHcFgV8/s320/PA110394.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392191051690221058" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Lower Cathedral Spire</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76h_jzGfuR0ZmZgbp4_Zu944QeDhZ2MLDmD58vjVCeTs1PMhGWZg6gfyvFq-38sK6RIDaLfunWfUcKsnHVDLi7sS8Q7SnDqPjiuAZdCKz1yEr96bUdBR3IGLowakA61fnBEOoA94NDwA/s1600-h/PA110408.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76h_jzGfuR0ZmZgbp4_Zu944QeDhZ2MLDmD58vjVCeTs1PMhGWZg6gfyvFq-38sK6RIDaLfunWfUcKsnHVDLi7sS8Q7SnDqPjiuAZdCKz1yEr96bUdBR3IGLowakA61fnBEOoA94NDwA/s320/PA110408.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392191072310591378" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnI_c6n0nkFqe4jRS4HgHMTRJQrOJ6CdMy0u3INg5_Ay_L5dI1F1iIfvYd2Vc2EwZAod29TVmi4PcnUc1Sa88nli_oKMJeGV9C4giYwFxY4j607-AFqeZFXWb5Mn12u9ioCiD5_esgRJk/s1600-h/PA110402.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnI_c6n0nkFqe4jRS4HgHMTRJQrOJ6CdMy0u3INg5_Ay_L5dI1F1iIfvYd2Vc2EwZAod29TVmi4PcnUc1Sa88nli_oKMJeGV9C4giYwFxY4j607-AFqeZFXWb5Mn12u9ioCiD5_esgRJk/s320/PA110402.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392191071172169986" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXt11xW_ckoF3qjSugKoWJiqylUtf2ToUn0WEGbo_ZserRREqfcvFQW4yYad79H5SzwxuGr8JH0UyW-6H2SbXL9NLFs_duWWQoN1v2cYRu2BVqy_o9hVEnoOPyXrsHrBNWutCXr-rcMTE/s1600-h/PA110399.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXt11xW_ckoF3qjSugKoWJiqylUtf2ToUn0WEGbo_ZserRREqfcvFQW4yYad79H5SzwxuGr8JH0UyW-6H2SbXL9NLFs_duWWQoN1v2cYRu2BVqy_o9hVEnoOPyXrsHrBNWutCXr-rcMTE/s320/PA110399.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392191059793480530" /></a><br /><br />The forecast took a big nosedive with heavy rains and flood warnings for Tuesday and Wednesday so yesterday we packed up and bailed! Camp Four climbers scurried out like roaches when the lights go on and everyone evacuated in a mass climber exodus towards San Francisco and other Big City safe havens.<br /><br />Joe and I dropped off our new friend Ian in Sacramento then bee-lined it back to San Francisco to warm beds and laundry at Grandma Kluberton's house in San Mateo. Back to the Valley as soon as the massive tempest lets up!Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-12026221938207529942009-05-15T09:57:00.015-08:002009-07-06T12:28:47.439-08:00Redemption in the Revelations – The first ascent of the Ice Pyramid<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUOrO5VnI/AAAAAAAACJc/zCL-kfiPGLA/s800/DSC02653.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUOrO5VnI/AAAAAAAACJc/zCL-kfiPGLA/s800/DSC02653.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />The past year had been boiled down and rendered into the monumental moment before us.<br />Crampons clicked on, backpack straps tightened and deep breaths echoed throughout the upper fork of the Big River Glacier. Seth and I looked each other in the eyes under the pre-dawn purple sky. “Hey man, this is it” I said, eyes focused and intent. We bumped fists and he nodded. “Let's get it.”<br /><br />The Revelation mountains, a sub-range located at the southwestern most portion of the Alaska Range, were first explored in 1967 by Dave Roberts, Art Davidson and friends. During their 57-day stay, they climbed a handful of beautiful peaks and named many others. Since their visit, less than twenty parties have ventured into these formidable mountains. With peaks ranging from six to almost ten-thousand feet, the Revelations are not high by altitude standards. However, their vertical reliefs are often huge and many are reminiscent of their northern brethren, the Kichatna Spires, some seventy-miles away.<br /><br />Aside from the obvious positive qualities of such an untamed range, the Revelations are known to be capable of producing some of the most heinous weather imaginable. Likewise, simply getting to the mountains is exorbitantly expensive and few pilots are willing to even fly there.<br /><br />This was Seth and my second trip to the Revelation mountains. Last season the two of us along with Steve Sinor made a foray into the rarely visited alpine mecca.<br /><br />All of us instantly became infatuated with an unclimbed 9,250-foot peak apparently called the Ice Pyramid. We made two attempts on its prize, the southwest ridge, but turned around on the eighteenth pitch on day three when it became apparent that we were crossing a point of no return. Regardless, we left with the first ascent of a beautiful 8,385-foot peak we named the Exodus. It was however, a mere secondary consolation to the Ice Pyramid. From there on out, the Ice Pyramid filled our heads with aspirations by day and occupied our dreams at night.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzURM45JOI/AAAAAAAACJg/X6x5gRmW73Y/s800/IMG_1306bg%20copy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzURM45JOI/AAAAAAAACJg/X6x5gRmW73Y/s800/IMG_1306bg%20copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The Ice Pyramid from the northwest. The southwest ridge is on the right skyline, somewhat foreshortened and convoluted by the south spur behind it</span><br /><br />Thanks to a Mugs Stump Award we received a second chance at the peak, this time unfortunately without Steve. Seth and I flew in once again with Rob Jones of R&R Guide Services, one of the coolest guys I've ever met and definitely the air master of the range.<br /><br />As we roped up on that culminating morning, Seth had that familiar expression on his face. He looked at me, but through me, his mouth slightly open and teeth biting his tongue. He was focused and concentrated, completely in the zone. Such a sight made me smile and propelled my confidence all the more. The first few pitches put us a good distance off the ground and Seth's block seemed to pass with finesse and ease. On our second attempt the year prior, we had climbed ten pitches the first day, a mere five the second and three the next before bailing. This year we aimed to climb fifteen pitches on day one and make it to a bivy we called the cave.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUeQLG4aI/AAAAAAAACJw/U2g9BpIxAlk/s800/DSC02694.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUeQLG4aI/AAAAAAAACJw/U2g9BpIxAlk/s800/DSC02694.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth seconding on day one</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUnDv25nI/AAAAAAAACJ4/R8FZ9G7v0KI/s800/DSC02667.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUnDv25nI/AAAAAAAACJ4/R8FZ9G7v0KI/s800/DSC02667.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth leads out on day one</span><br /><br />So far things were looking up. Pitch after pitch and hour after hour fell behind us as we cruised the known terrain. After nearly 14 hours on the go, we pulled into the cave and took to relaxing. The Alaskan sun was still high in the sky at 7 PM and even at ten it showed no signs of disappearing any time soon. The next morning we were up at four and on the go soon after.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUUC5MeWI/AAAAAAAACJk/ZO4fu4Br8lo/s800/DSC02671.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUUC5MeWI/AAAAAAAACJk/ZO4fu4Br8lo/s800/DSC02671.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth climbs a short rock step as a fighter jet zooms by overhead</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUjk8HlII/AAAAAAAACJ0/211AGPtcvXA/s400/DSC02699.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUjk8HlII/AAAAAAAACJ0/211AGPtcvXA/s400/DSC02699.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Looking down one of the rock steps as Seth climbs up</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJvA-rpfwI/AAAAAAAACNU/IRZMAhbIqUo/s400/DSC02682.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJvA-rpfwI/AAAAAAAACNU/IRZMAhbIqUo/s400/DSC02682.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Drying out gear at the cave bivy</span><br /><br /><object width="400"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/wSu6f_bzF8c&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/wSu6f_bzF8c&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">Cave Bivy</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUZLtoZHI/AAAAAAAACJo/CfKS0iVUxtA/s400/DSC02691.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUZLtoZHI/AAAAAAAACJo/CfKS0iVUxtA/s400/DSC02691.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth on the route's rock crux on the morning of day two</span><br /><br />A short, awkward move out of the cave led to one of the crux pitches of the route. Since I had led it last year, Seth took it this year just for fun. We quickly reached our previous highpoint and bypassed it by traversing under a series of gendarmes. Deep and unconsolidated snow over slab still took forever to overcome. More vertical wallowing under a massive cornice put us into the sun where conditions rapidly improved. Seth climbed a steep snow pitch to a knife edge ridge, where several long blocks of steep simul-climbing interspersed by short rock steps put us directly under the summit ridge. At a phallic looking outcrop we called the wiener rock, I belayed Seth up and then beyond. He burrowed through the cornice and hauled me up. The Ice Pyramid, an object of obsession and dedication, sacrifice and commitment was ours.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzT7_qhuBI/AAAAAAAACJA/jy3Z_t-ec2A/s400/DSC02708.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzT7_qhuBI/AAAAAAAACJA/jy3Z_t-ec2A/s400/DSC02708.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth coming up with the entire southwest ridge spanned out below</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzT_0-pcJI/AAAAAAAACJE/U3tfNwqCA-k/s400/DSC02709.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzT_0-pcJI/AAAAAAAACJE/U3tfNwqCA-k/s400/DSC02709.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth just on the other side of the summit with Mount Mausolus in the background</span><br /><br />Sweat dripped into our eyes as the sun beat down upon us. A panorama of breathtaking unclimbed peaks pulled our eyes in every direction. The southwest ridge lay below like a semi-coiled snake in the ready-to-strike position. With such a beautiful day, we decided to enjoy lunch on a flatter subsidiary summit where we unroped and proceeded to walk to a flat spot overlooking the Swift glacier. Following Seth, I suddenly found myself falling. Arms and legs instinctively braced wide and in an instant I was eye level to his boots. I figured I had simply fallen into a rock moat, but quickly realized the contrary. Cold dry air blew up my face as my legs kicked into nothingness. “Shit! Seth! Oh my God! I'm in a Crevasse. Help!” He briefly stood there, not quite sure what to do. My crampons kicked into the side walls and I tediously heaved myself out. My heart rate slowed to only about 180 beats per minute and the trembling in my hands soon subsided, but the incident had left me shaken. The fact that I was unroped told me that I was very lucky to even be alive. After a while, we climbed back down the other side where we made several rappels to a small bivy platform.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUCHev9fI/AAAAAAAACJM/6qrdwjtpzXA/s400/DSC02719.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUCHev9fI/AAAAAAAACJM/6qrdwjtpzXA/s400/DSC02719.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The crevasse</span><br /><br /><object width="400"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tOZmXMn3emY&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tOZmXMn3emY&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">A closer look into the icy gape of the crevasse</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJvECVxKWI/AAAAAAAACOM/vzCObjonJck/s400/DSC02722.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJvECVxKWI/AAAAAAAACOM/vzCObjonJck/s400/DSC02722.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Prepping to rappel in the morning</span><br /><br />In the morning after more three rappels, I thought back to the previous year. A stuck rope high on the northwest face still resonated loudly in my head. A new thought, “Seth, we can rappel into this couloir on the southwest face and down climb the whole thing, then be off this mountain in two hours. What do ya' think?” Though tempting, it was exceedingly risky since it would put us in a different valley and the threat of rockfall was ever present. Seth cautiously took the bait and we rapped over the edge of the southwest ridge, a point of no return. Two more rappels put us on fast terrain and we down climbed the entire couloir in less than two hours. The whole time, fighter jets from Anchorage's Elmendorf Air Force base flew low over head. Needless to say, our guests kept us terrified as their near sonic booms sounded just like eminent rockfall. Both of us breathed a sigh of relief once out of the gully.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUEDyesAI/AAAAAAAACJQ/4HjjU6H6X0w/s400/DSC02725.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 292px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUEDyesAI/AAAAAAAACJQ/4HjjU6H6X0w/s400/DSC02725.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUKp0SQfI/AAAAAAAACJY/u_ZISgglnHU/s800/DSC02642.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUKp0SQfI/AAAAAAAACJY/u_ZISgglnHU/s800/DSC02642.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A fighter jet buzzes our basecamp at 400 MPH</span><br /><br />A crucial pass, one we thought Dave Roberts had taken as part of his “Butterfly Traverse” in 1967 proved to be nonexistent from the Swift side. When we got to the top of what we thought was the pass, we found only a rock wall of completely shattered shale on the other side. An attempt to traverse a shale band set off a slush avalanche that took everything over a cliff. “Shit,” I said, “what now?” Seth had that same look on his face, but this time the intense concentration seemed to be lacking. The confidence had been replaced with wariness and trepidation. “Ugh, I don't know. Let's go down and see what we see from the bottom,” he said.<br /><br />We had enough food to camp out and decide in the morning when the snow was firmer, so we set up the tent and contemplated our options. It seemed as if the Ice Pyramid was playing a game with us. What had been a difficult but relatively fluid climb had become marred by an unnerving descent. “Hmmm, I wonder how many days down the river Lime Village is,” I thought. The answer...120 miles by river. “Well, I guess we'll try again tomorrow,” Seth said.<br /><br />During the evening we pondered Mount Mausolus to the south, which Dave Roberts accurately described as a “hopeless labyrinth” in the 1968 American Alpine Journal. In the morning, exhausted but determined to find a way over the pass we tried again. It just didn't seem to make sense. The pass was beautiful from the Big River side, but on our side it appeared to be a 400-foot cliff. What was the deal here?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUH16bohI/AAAAAAAACJU/21unZjyRCpU/s400/DSC02742.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SgzUH16bohI/AAAAAAAACJU/21unZjyRCpU/s400/DSC02742.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />As Seth and I got to the top of the shale pinnacles, we were enveloped by a localized whiteout. “Dude...what the...” I said as I shook my head and threw my arms up. “Just let us go!” We both knew that we couldn't be more than a few pitches above our skis and that no matter where we were, the rock band was minimal. With a short clearing in the clouds we peered over and saw the glacier about 500-feet below. Several manky rappels brought us closer to salvation. At the third rappel off a dead-manned picket, 30-meters followed by a 10-to15-meter rock band was all that separated us from the glacier. “That picket is bomber,” I thought, “I hope.” Sure enough, it held and a sense of completeness filled my body as I touched ground. Seth later told divulged that the picket shifted about three inches as I went over the vertical section. He came down and then we hiked to our skis and excitedly skied back to camp in a whiteout, still feeling the mountain's pull on us.<br /><br />For the rest of the trip we toured the Big River complex and scouted other options. All however, paled in comparison to the Ice Pyramid. After a few days, Seth and I decided the next best route was yet another on the Ice Pyramid, a wide gash on the west face we called the Cataclysmic Couloir. 2,500-feet of steep snow and aerated ice culminated into the northwest ridge where an icy wishbone arete loomed omnipotently above. We made good time up the couloir, climbing it in two 1,000-foot blocks followed by several pitches of belayed and simul-climbing. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuAsyt5UI/AAAAAAAACMI/49lNE6pugso/s400/DSC02794.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuAsyt5UI/AAAAAAAACMI/49lNE6pugso/s400/DSC02794.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth leading out in the upper parts of the Cataclysmic Couloir</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuEATEibI/AAAAAAAACMM/5cZPaY71HnA/s400/DSC02795.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuEATEibI/AAAAAAAACMM/5cZPaY71HnA/s400/DSC02795.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A look down from the top of the couloir</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuMNOeckI/AAAAAAAACMY/O_nF4Y4lnsw/s400/DSC02805.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuMNOeckI/AAAAAAAACMY/O_nF4Y4lnsw/s400/DSC02805.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">At the top of the Cataclysmic Couloir where the wind was blowing like hell. The Big River Glacier is visible below</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuPWbGUHI/AAAAAAAACMc/WHriJlWMDV0/s400/DSC02826.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuPWbGUHI/AAAAAAAACMc/WHriJlWMDV0/s400/DSC02826.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Going down</span><br /><br />The glaciated ice above looked to be AI5+/6 and with only four ice screws and a picket belay, bailing seemed the only logical option. After five picket and crappy v-thread rappels we hastily down climbed the remaining 1,700-feet. With one final look at our prize and an amazing ski back to camp, we decided to pack up and head out. <br /><br /><object width="400"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/g_ZsReyJ8og&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/g_ZsReyJ8og&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">A look down the Ice Pyramid's north face from the top of the Cataclysmic Couloir</span><br /><br /><object width="400"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/STwYbldYrV0&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/STwYbldYrV0&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">Gettin' the goods on the way back to camp</span><br /><br />Over the next three days we scoped future objectives and relaxingly hiked 21-miles down the Big River to Rob Jones' lodge.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShLjCj7xv5I/AAAAAAAACOc/cWQHdbyu2iM/s400/DSC02918.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShLjCj7xv5I/AAAAAAAACOc/cWQHdbyu2iM/s400/DSC02918.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth enjoying the sunset on the hike out</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJu1gvQJGI/AAAAAAAACNE/aUfzAwM3N58/s400/DSC02906.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJu1gvQJGI/AAAAAAAACNE/aUfzAwM3N58/s400/DSC02906.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">6000-foot tall death-served-cold route, anyone?</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShLjIHMs8nI/AAAAAAAACOg/ooGZi04BMUk/s400/DSC02938.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShLjIHMs8nI/AAAAAAAACOg/ooGZi04BMUk/s400/DSC02938.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The western rampart of the monstrocity known as Mount Hesperus, the tallest peak in the range</span><br /><br />For us, the Ice Pyramid represented not only the culmination of a year of training and obsession. It represented a dream come true through sheer will, faith and the support of the Mugs Stump Award. The southwest ridge of the Ice Pyramid (Alaska Grade 4/5 5.8 60-degrees 2600') definitely brought out the best of both of us. Without a doubt, this was the most lay it out there, remote and consistently challenging climb we have ever done. Its ascent, as well as the descent demanded everything from us. Nothing came easy and the reward was well worth the effort. So, to Michael Kennedy and everyone else involved in the Mugs Stump Award: thank you for the opportunity to fulfill a dream! A big thanks also goes out to <a href="http://www.bdel.com">Black Diamond</a> and <a href="http://www.petzl.com">Petzl</a> for their support!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJt8LPC9VI/AAAAAAAACME/1Bw1IYDnH-c/s400/DSC02774.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJt8LPC9VI/AAAAAAAACME/1Bw1IYDnH-c/s400/DSC02774.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Scoping the Ice Pyramid</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuZ_o-ZbI/AAAAAAAACMo/M8iTCCsZ834/s400/DSC02865.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/ShJuZ_o-ZbI/AAAAAAAACMo/M8iTCCsZ834/s400/DSC02865.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Here's a little press from <a href="http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/first_ascent_of_the_ice_pyramid_in_alaska/">Climbing Magazine's Hot Flashes</a>.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-32974360214620807642009-04-14T14:55:00.005-08:002009-04-15T14:41:18.826-08:00An Eklutna Canyon Mixed NastyFor quick access to some great ice climbs, there's no place better than Eklutna Canyon. While most of the climbs are typically mellow in nature (WI3-4), there are lots of options to explore and the setting is beautiful. Lately we've learned that there is lots of potential for dry and mixed lines on the steep walls of the canyon.<br /><br />Recently a local climber established a really pumpy seven-bolt drytool route at the back of the canyon. Like a vanerial disease in a hippy commune, word quickly spread about this supposed new route. <br /><br />After pulling out of work early, photographer-extraordinaire Matt Hage along with his lovely assistant "Super" Ags Stowe accompanied me to the canyon. Perhaps they hoped to get some good shots and maybe witness a little carnage amid the myriad of crumbling rock, fracturing ice, ropes and sharp pointy things.<br /><br />The route was indeed pumpy and I did my fair share of hangdogging the first time. On the second lead though, I only fell once. Perhaps next time the climb will go clean!<br /><br />All photos courtesy of Matt Hage. Please check out his website at <a href="http://www.hagephoto.com">HagePhoto.com</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Ags looks normal but I look all fat. Damn Matt's weird lenses!</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-2.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Scratching up the lower section</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-8.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-8.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-3.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-13.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-13.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-14.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.hagephoto.com/eklutnadry/pictures/picture-14.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-83608040129221321102009-04-11T08:34:00.002-08:002009-04-14T12:07:31.936-08:00Spring time in Alaska seems to surprise me every year. It's dark, cold and I'm lethargic...then suddenly it's seemingly always light, warmer and I'm full of energy. Essencially, I go from being the <a href="http://higherdreams.blogspot.com/2008/11/motivation-and-lack-there-of.html">deflated balloon</a> to being an adventuring fiend! <br /><br />It's pretty damned cool to be able to get out of work at 7PM and still have time to go for an evening ski or ice climb. Here's a few shots from an evening ski on Peak Two in the Chugach front range. <br /><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Mount Redoubt's ash cloud to the south west.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn8KpuM48WXoQdoCv331BUuyPH8VKpIwpP1ZZdwHtp8l45TkA2tN0J1NoAakbfbg8qnH0F_iibQ_zVT5Ai6vj5Vt7-wztWn3KJUp2MiMoac2o2XS9K9V0ra7tAr8LfX5xYmpZdBVkhKpI/s1600-h/DSC02572.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn8KpuM48WXoQdoCv331BUuyPH8VKpIwpP1ZZdwHtp8l45TkA2tN0J1NoAakbfbg8qnH0F_iibQ_zVT5Ai6vj5Vt7-wztWn3KJUp2MiMoac2o2XS9K9V0ra7tAr8LfX5xYmpZdBVkhKpI/s400/DSC02572.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323474223976744482" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LIT9_bgKNCjVlWt5TetnJnCf3fK5M4GrThqFQNbc8_7YGDU9YBcmmtRYBUPlj-OT9EqLLrmip8twL_9P1PboLUEMAGU0yc-F4c7c9CRfSlSAZQkcb-Nj0kvcEAS0r3rG6nlYwZJF8cs/s1600-h/DSC02574.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LIT9_bgKNCjVlWt5TetnJnCf3fK5M4GrThqFQNbc8_7YGDU9YBcmmtRYBUPlj-OT9EqLLrmip8twL_9P1PboLUEMAGU0yc-F4c7c9CRfSlSAZQkcb-Nj0kvcEAS0r3rG6nlYwZJF8cs/s400/DSC02574.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323474226373635810" /></a><br /><span style="font-style:italic;"><br />Matt always provides ample entertainment on our outings</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAl3LWukSHIZa6vZ8M7W5bUu0cLKqQVOM5aBPFBG32aF8o2WdqJy-zi8sBIxea5CbXZGah-n7Gi7bogswxYF2uHxSILoayzxSS7DHdYuFWgr-iolL9l1ABL8wPsZKFrtYAiVZERx4QHI/s1600-h/DSC02563.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAl3LWukSHIZa6vZ8M7W5bUu0cLKqQVOM5aBPFBG32aF8o2WdqJy-zi8sBIxea5CbXZGah-n7Gi7bogswxYF2uHxSILoayzxSS7DHdYuFWgr-iolL9l1ABL8wPsZKFrtYAiVZERx4QHI/s400/DSC02563.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323474219841967090" /></a><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Super Ags kicks a great trail and is one tough chick!</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpsTgIetgHnBfgdUN0lK_77RADagN584-RtevGrYQy6PI6huqThA5gIsZ3e2o-gsJqRgg5mPsV7q7GXw7mH_wWChWBfh_1hyFtp7sku-ulmd9-uitL1wnbjBXZ4lnCUGyzzLYJsGDmKI/s1600-h/DSC02573.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpsTgIetgHnBfgdUN0lK_77RADagN584-RtevGrYQy6PI6huqThA5gIsZ3e2o-gsJqRgg5mPsV7q7GXw7mH_wWChWBfh_1hyFtp7sku-ulmd9-uitL1wnbjBXZ4lnCUGyzzLYJsGDmKI/s400/DSC02573.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323474210279562226" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-29412347921243302802009-03-15T09:59:00.004-08:002009-03-19T11:26:51.423-08:00The southwest ridge of Peak 11,300 has long been a desired route of mine. Several years ago two friends made a late winter ascent, climbing the route in six long days.<br /><br />"We were slow, you can do it much faster for sure!" they said.<br /><br />When our pilot friend offered to fly us "anywhere we wanted to go" it was hard to resist. Seth and I quickly jumped on his offer and settled on a trip to the Ruth for some late winter exploits.<br /><br />It isn't often that an *almost* free trip to the Alaska Range falls into one's lap. We quickly learned that free doesn't always come without a price.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvxl9gqPfI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Ro_LvjwRvyQ/s640/DSC02430.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvxl9gqPfI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Ro_LvjwRvyQ/s640/DSC02430.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Conor "The Man" McManigan on the flight in</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvxru6o_xI/AAAAAAAACAE/s7iRsAsdcXQ/s640/DSC02434.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvxru6o_xI/AAAAAAAACAE/s7iRsAsdcXQ/s640/DSC02434.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The Broken Tooth</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvxotnqNII/AAAAAAAACCo/X3dPunaQCUE/s512/DSC02431.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvxotnqNII/AAAAAAAACCo/X3dPunaQCUE/s512/DSC02431.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The stunning UNCLIMBED East Buttress of MT. Johnson.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvxu91wy6I/AAAAAAAACCw/IK2OkQQCFJY/s512/DSC02451.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvxu91wy6I/AAAAAAAACCw/IK2OkQQCFJY/s512/DSC02451.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Peak 11,300's SW Ridge</span><br /><br /><br />We equipped ourselves with an arsenal of warm clothes that would lift a Russian's brow and ran up a hefty Costco food bill.<br /><br />The weather gods appeased us and granted us with a solid week of stellar bluebird weather and astonishingly moderate temps ranging from -10 to 10F at basecamp in the west fork of the Ruth.<br /><br />Despite the temps, the snow was extremely unconsolidated and dry, as expected. Our pilot's ski dug in on the turnaround and became hopelessly stuck. Hours and hours of digging, wedging and improvisation finally dislodged the plane. The strut on the wheel bent which caused the ski to edge in to the snow. Hmmm, was this a sign?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvx4QwNpNI/AAAAAAAACAY/st9yBxe1CCI/s640/DSC02464.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvx4QwNpNI/AAAAAAAACAY/st9yBxe1CCI/s640/DSC02464.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The Rooster Comb</span><br /><br />With that near miss behind us, we hastily broke trail up glacier. The firing squad of gravity-defying seracs on Huntington's North Wall hurried our movement to the base of the ridge.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvx_9tDq5I/AAAAAAAACAk/Jk12qpM92Kk/s640/DSC02472.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/Sbvx_9tDq5I/AAAAAAAACAk/Jk12qpM92Kk/s640/DSC02472.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyBnKS5RI/AAAAAAAACDI/19VwPuIhII8/s512/DSC02475.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyBnKS5RI/AAAAAAAACDI/19VwPuIhII8/s512/DSC02475.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Beautiful winter light over the North Wall of Huntington</span><br /><br />Up on the route, everything looked good. We knew that in typical spring conditions the route can be done in two-three good days. We packed five days of food and fuel, knowing the deep snow would dramatically slow us.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyKdxOZPI/AAAAAAAACDQ/qW9Cvid29RA/s512/DSC02487.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyKdxOZPI/AAAAAAAACDQ/qW9Cvid29RA/s512/DSC02487.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />On the first day we made quick time up the approach gully. Snow ranged from waist or more deep snow to firm neve. Still, with so much snow on the route, every move seemed to take five times longer than it should have. Locating pick or protection placements turned into grueling minutes. The 35lb packs bogged down with cold weather bags, ample fuel and food, etc didn't help.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyXERTpFI/AAAAAAAACDo/1RaS6HOqtSQ/s512/DSC02507.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyXERTpFI/AAAAAAAACDo/1RaS6HOqtSQ/s512/DSC02507.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Our goal had been the first col on the first night...roughly one third of the way up the route. On the first day we made it half the way, to the boulder bivy just below Flake Gully.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyNI7dEwI/AAAAAAAACDY/6Xv0t4ZK_qQ/s512/DSC02489.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyNI7dEwI/AAAAAAAACDY/6Xv0t4ZK_qQ/s512/DSC02489.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth on one of the mixed pitches</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyPI6o8uI/AAAAAAAACBA/-u4pKIAiVRo/s640/DSC02490.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyPI6o8uI/AAAAAAAACBA/-u4pKIAiVRo/s640/DSC02490.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth at the boulder bivy</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyR9qgnYI/AAAAAAAACBE/7XZC-QG6c1c/s640/DSC02497.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyR9qgnYI/AAAAAAAACBE/7XZC-QG6c1c/s640/DSC02497.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />"Ugh, this is painfully slow," we thought. "We have to move faster tomorrow!"<br /><br />The next day required full on snow trench warfare against Flake Gully and the subsequent mixed pitches beyond.<br /><br />Swing, swing, bash, bash, scoop, swing, drag, place. Step up, sink down. Repeat. Look back and see five minutes had advanced us three feet. "WHAT!"<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvydB7SrzI/AAAAAAAACBU/VWoMlysVMUk/s640/DSC02511.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvydB7SrzI/AAAAAAAACBU/VWoMlysVMUk/s640/DSC02511.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">The North Wall of Huntington</span><br /><br />Day two came and went with not nearly as much progress being made as we had hoped. Despite continuous 55-58m pitches, we just didn't seem to be getting anywhere.<br /><br />"Hmmm, so tomorrow we'll make it to the first col...on day three. One third of the way up the route..."<br /><br />"Yeah, but what if the snow gets better up high and we can move faster?"<br /><br />"What if it doesn't?"<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyZxvndrI/AAAAAAAACDw/TrmJOcjD5fo/s512/DSC02508.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyZxvndrI/AAAAAAAACDw/TrmJOcjD5fo/s512/DSC02508.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Seth contemplates the future while water boils on the second night. Notice my mittens acting as booties!</span><br /><br />We battled the decision on the morning of day three just below Thin Man's Squeeze and bailed. The descent down the south ridge and under the hanging glacier with waist deep snow didn't sound appealing either.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyfuEixmI/AAAAAAAACD4/TXF1ELrJ13o/s512/DSC02515.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 384px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvyfuEixmI/AAAAAAAACD4/TXF1ELrJ13o/s512/DSC02515.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />On the way down a friendly raven followed us and cooed as if to say we made the right choice.<br /><br />We got back to basecamp only to find that this same lone raven had destroyed our camp. That damned bird had tunneled, literally tunneled under our duffel bags and gotten to our trash bag. He also managed to unzip my bag and pull my jacket and spare clothes out. We knew ravens were notorious for invading camps and even digging, but in early March??????<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/aPQr3_ZW1yo&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/aPQr3_ZW1yo&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>The raven's revenge<br /><br />We called Paul Roderick from TAT and asked for a pick up.<br /><br />"Sure thing. I'll need a six, no wait - eight, no wait - thousand foot runway with a big turn around."<br /><br />Five hours later Seth and I had a stellar 12'x1000' strip flattened out. Paul arrived in a jolly mood and whisked us away with ease.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvzMw4p7PI/AAAAAAAACCM/LaK-r93woek/s640/DSC02556.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SbvzMw4p7PI/AAAAAAAACCM/LaK-r93woek/s640/DSC02556.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GMGXpBeJRw0&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GMGXpBeJRw0&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />Despite not getting to the top, or even close for the matter, the climbing was amazing and very fun. The imposing North Face of Huntington, Rooster Comb and South Buttress of Denali provided incredible vistas throughout our week.<br /><br />It was a pleasant experience to be completely alone in the Ruth. We learned that Masatoshi Kuriaki, the Japanese Caribou soloist, is bailing from Hunter's West Ridge due to the same deep snow conditions we had. He has already climbed both Foraker and Denali solo in the winter and needs only Hunter to complete his quest. We wish him a safe descent.<br /><br />Hopefully we can go back this spring and tackle the route in better conditions.<br /><br />It was a treat just to be in the Range for a week.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-64297503419109954192009-02-10T00:51:00.005-09:002009-02-10T01:31:40.528-09:00Hurdy Gurdy ClimbsThis season my focus has been to not only climb harder and faster, but to tick off as many climbs that I haven't done previously as possible.<br /><br />So far this season, I've ticked off<br />-Hollow Icicle<br />-PFM Route<br />-Dreams of a Brown Moose<br />-Bullwinkle<br />-Avalon Falls<br /><br />One that I've always wanted to check out but requires a burly approach are the <a href="http://www.alaskaiceclimbing.com/hurdygurdyarea.htm">Hurdy Gurdy climbs</a> in Eagle River.<br /><br />Richard was going out there with a few friends this weekend and invited me along.<br /><br />The approach starts with just under a three mile ski, followed by another 1.5 mile bushwhack up a small drainage that gains more than 3,200 vertical feet. The approach alone took 4.5 hours. While the others climbed Piece of Cake, a fat 325' WI3, Richard and I traversed over and climbed Fruit Cake, a solid WI4. <br /><br />Armed with an arsenal of 10 screws, I set off and climbed through lots of steep alpine ice that was brittle and often aerated. It took lots of time to lead through the funky ice. I got to a spot that looked good for belaying...and it wasn't. I put in a 10cm screw and equalized it with a worthless spectre, then climbed up another 20' of vertical ice. With one long screw left, I constructed a V-thread (that was hard as hell to make since my abalokov didn't want to grab the webbing). Then that was equalized with my last screw.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7gyk8Rza_4SF6wsrhWYoqtMDyCmEZ6NmZHptfHvzDPGNraMz2vGB_5Vcm8JxgBbh54c1yl75_sQC-C-I-Yidr2u6FCiuUCbIrWmWQSV-o6jW607J6nTwGo4zmJKU_XJ60bC1F5Ae3nE/s1600-h/DSC02421.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7gyk8Rza_4SF6wsrhWYoqtMDyCmEZ6NmZHptfHvzDPGNraMz2vGB_5Vcm8JxgBbh54c1yl75_sQC-C-I-Yidr2u6FCiuUCbIrWmWQSV-o6jW607J6nTwGo4zmJKU_XJ60bC1F5Ae3nE/s400/DSC02421.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301111177027222514" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5KV9rgZ9ZUjVOD2a00bG26GLHanpZNtpOeF1ezq37SbOno75_hPwVbMiMTBljSrQgwhXI2ufes39tHHF8QJDyyoTiTOlj7NhbcjftHTi_tL54jBkSfuZ0e5NVGZF7XMMzukvzqnE986E/s1600-h/DSC02424.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5KV9rgZ9ZUjVOD2a00bG26GLHanpZNtpOeF1ezq37SbOno75_hPwVbMiMTBljSrQgwhXI2ufes39tHHF8QJDyyoTiTOlj7NhbcjftHTi_tL54jBkSfuZ0e5NVGZF7XMMzukvzqnE986E/s400/DSC02424.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301111182223973378" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Richard is barely visible way down there</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSYwYam9GySVvguHs79pJKUK52W50D1A6FXXBB6Epq9hXtVo9CxqeixSwH9mMbM6BbBk-bzJbEv57x22y9ijBlNhw_ANKDGIamXlCo0sMp19m8-9gPBqMocmm5o9GSEMxoMf6759N1yhw/s1600-h/DSC02425.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSYwYam9GySVvguHs79pJKUK52W50D1A6FXXBB6Epq9hXtVo9CxqeixSwH9mMbM6BbBk-bzJbEv57x22y9ijBlNhw_ANKDGIamXlCo0sMp19m8-9gPBqMocmm5o9GSEMxoMf6759N1yhw/s400/DSC02425.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301111186046709618" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A view down from the hanging (uncomfortable) belay</span><br /><br />Richard followed up then lead another 40' of slightly better ice. <br /><br />We decided to traverse a snow ledge over to Piece of Cake and rappel from there. Richard lead out and protected the running belay with slings wrapped around finger-width alders. Three rappels brought us down to the bottom, where our friends met us. <br /><br />Sadly, one of my poles got caught on an alder while traversing through them and got pulled off my pack without me knowing. We gathered our things, then started the hike down and out. <br /><br />The whole day was about 13.5 hours...a long day for a little ice.<br /><br />The point of the day was to work my legs and climb some new ice. Mission accomplished!<br /><br />After that, we had a midnight dinner of moose spaghetti at Richard's and then happily turned in for the night after a long day!Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-1676834749867232052009-02-05T13:09:00.005-09:002009-02-05T17:11:10.241-09:00Steep Highway Ice<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtC4t_d6kI/AAAAAAAAB8M/ACPTtUXt6sc/s512/IMG_2023.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 341px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtC4t_d6kI/AAAAAAAAB8M/ACPTtUXt6sc/s512/IMG_2023.JPG" alt="" border="0"></a><br />After a long cold snap followed by a long warm snap, the ice around southcentral Alaska is finally looking good again.<br /><br />Lee and I took advantage of the conditions and headed out to the highway for some steep drips. Neither of us had ever climbed much on the PFM Wall, so we started there. We've always wondered what PFM stands for and our friend Matt thinks it stands for Pretty Fucking Miserable. Despite his guess, it was nothing but stellar on Saturday for us.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtC8OTKj5I/AAAAAAAAB8U/70jPoU9_TDY/s512/IMG_2029.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 341px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtC8OTKj5I/AAAAAAAAB8U/70jPoU9_TDY/s512/IMG_2029.JPG" alt="" border="0"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtDAJRPJWI/AAAAAAAAB8k/GJyJwb4kn0w/s512/IMG_2037.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 341px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtDAJRPJWI/AAAAAAAAB8k/GJyJwb4kn0w/s512/IMG_2037.JPG" alt="" border="0"></a><br />The first 30 feet are dead vertical and contain mostly candlesticked ice with occasional spots for pro. Luckily, I was able to reach the third bolt to stop a groundfall right off the bat. There was a small hole where two converging drips came together that allowed me to chicken-wing with my left arm as I put in my second screw. That was a first for me, I've never chicken-winged on an ice climb before. It was almost fist-jammable, but not quite. Above that, the climbing eased a little bit, but still proved thin and aerated in spots.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtC-J50wyI/AAAAAAAAB8c/rAlYUJYsgEU/s512/IMG_2033.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 341px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtC-J50wyI/AAAAAAAAB8c/rAlYUJYsgEU/s512/IMG_2033.JPG" alt="" border="0"></a><br />The south facing aspect of the highway means that it can get lots of sun. Half-way up the climb, I was so hot I shed my coat and continued up in my poly-pro top. You can see in the photo that I was all black: stealth mode!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtDCG8DvsI/AAAAAAAAB8s/tCTyxtsTQhU/s512/IMG_2077.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 341px; height: 512px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SYtDCG8DvsI/AAAAAAAAB8s/tCTyxtsTQhU/s512/IMG_2077.JPG" alt="" border="0"></a><br />Lee followed up like a champ, then we rapped off and did a lap on Roadside Attraction, which was also stellar.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwoo1Exgdx_LR4c3KPTFo-M7ZyCIz4bKXU31MNG-hGTaW4qlqqUdbsgwHSSriGjCaCVtLpL3UFJzUIBPBL47w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />Here's a cool video sequence I put together from Lee's photographs.<br /><br /><br />On Sunday while everyone else was watching the Super Bowl, Lee, Matt, Agnes and I skied at Alyeska.<br /><br />The next day we went back to the PFM wall so Matt, a professional photographer, could snap some shots. It was not a very nice day and his guess of what PFM stands for seemed to fit.<br /><br />I broke a crampon on lead and encountered several other problems that forced me to lower down. After fixing the bugs, I re-climbed the route to the top. <br /><br />Thanks to Lee for supplying these awesome shots.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-32957400656464410112009-01-11T10:51:00.006-09:002009-01-15T08:14:30.500-09:00Viva El Fede!Federico "el Fede" Campanini was an amazing human being. I first met him during my second season working on Rainier. Fede was one of those rare breeds of people that got along with everyone and never had a negative thought in his head. Fede loved educating people on mountain travel and was equally at home discussing broader contexts of life during breaks on the hill. <br /><br />We lived together that season in Ashford under the flanks of Mount Rainier. Fede was quickly a favorite among both fellow guides and clients alike. <br /><br />I remember when I was moving up to 14k camp on Denali this spring. Fede's team had just had a super long, hard day. He looked very tired, but still had that same characteristic smile creased across his sunburned, sweat encrusted face. Exhausted as he was, his true generosity and selfless nature were as present then as they ever were. <br /><br />The more I climb, the more I come to appreciate the small things. Mountains like Denali are fun simply enough in the fact that you frequently run into familiar faces. When I ran into Fede on that beautiful day in May I knew it would be the last time I would see him. It never occurred to me though that it could be under such circumstances.<br /><br />Fede died on Aconcagua, his home mountain, on January 7th, 2009. It is with no doubt in my mind though, that the actions which led to his death saved the lives of his clients. That's the Fede I knew and that's the Fede I will remember.<br /><br />I cannot help but mourn the loss of my good friend, but likewise I choose to celebrate his life.<br />Like the winds and the snows of the high peaks Fede climbed, his spirit is forever a part of the mountains. For that much, I cannot help but smile. <br /><br />VIVA EL FEDE!!!!!!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.rmiguides.com/about/guides/p_campanini.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 220px; height: 270px;" src="http://www.rmiguides.com/about/guides/p_campanini.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-88830685649106190032009-01-08T14:21:00.005-09:002009-01-08T14:27:58.947-09:00New Training LogNow that I know the Revelations trip is going to happen, it's time to get down to business. So, I created a new blog to help log my training and nutrition. It's rough and new, but will be continuously refined as I get a better idea as to what my training methods should be. Please feel free to check it out and offer input, ideas, suggestions or even encouragement!<br /><br />Check it out at <a href="http://higherdreamstraining.blogspot.com">HIGHER DREAMS TRAINING</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZlQA5cxI/AAAAAAAABuU/WSBKqnTgB8Y/s720/yosemite%20to%20SF%20293.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZlQA5cxI/AAAAAAAABuU/WSBKqnTgB8Y/s720/yosemite%20to%20SF%20293.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-86516199984134802602009-01-02T17:44:00.006-09:002009-01-08T12:21:55.207-09:00Mugs Stump Grant!2009 kicked off to an AMAZING start when word came that I had been selected as a recipient of one of the most prestigious grants a climber can dream of...the <a href="http://www.mugsstumpaward.com">Mugs Stump Grant</a>. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJG9HcJW565Ut6XS4X3YsT_FamBqsKeJftrZhrxvYAnWpPqCrJXw1fJdumNUYz5ewyjk9I1BOV503hxPYv7-1b9SDCzMOawHlC4YBIsRXrTNaQ3Bjl3Di3p2nKCeOz43sCoiljwjY4MhM/s1600-h/06mugs_stump_award.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 105px; height: 139px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJG9HcJW565Ut6XS4X3YsT_FamBqsKeJftrZhrxvYAnWpPqCrJXw1fJdumNUYz5ewyjk9I1BOV503hxPYv7-1b9SDCzMOawHlC4YBIsRXrTNaQ3Bjl3Di3p2nKCeOz43sCoiljwjY4MhM/s400/06mugs_stump_award.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286934585459527362" /></a><br />Mugs Stump was an avid climber in the 1980s and early 1990s. His bold routes on the Emperor Face of Mount Robson, the east face of the Mooses Tooth, the north buttress of Mount Hunter, Yosemite and beyond are unmatched and timeless. Mugs' impeccable style set the standard by which many alpine climbs are now compared to. Tragically, Mugs died in a crevasse fall while guiding on Denali in 1992.<br /><br />Seth and I will use the money to go nail some unclimbed objectives in <a href="http://higherdreams.blogspot.com/2008/05/two-weeks-in-revelations.html">the Revelations</a>, located at the southwestern most part of the Alaska range. After last year's venture, we have lots of unfinished business to tend to. <br /><br />The motivation so lacking is now coursing through my veins! T-minus five months! Time to start training!!!!!!!Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-78508844192377505832008-11-26T19:36:00.007-09:002008-11-27T16:05:21.593-09:00Eagle River IceEagle River is without a doubt my favorite place to climb. The views are gorgeous, the approaches are relatively easy and there's so much to do within an hour or two from the car. <br /><br />I've already climbed out there three times this ice season, but haven't posted anything about it. So, as I try to get motivated (see post below), here's a little trip report from a day on the ice with my good friend Richard Baranow.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrQ49kIp-rej4Av0UXGI3IyrLZ6Jlzf7Wu35rLIHh5gOqEeoPZzBFK84l9o0euqTC-MeF4Qjvg71np2YTvfzrZZbr5vK1lWpxmlgOco2F0n4Chd867NLAQP-tYtmyx2sevAA5N0WrpUE/s1600-h/DSC02205.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrQ49kIp-rej4Av0UXGI3IyrLZ6Jlzf7Wu35rLIHh5gOqEeoPZzBFK84l9o0euqTC-MeF4Qjvg71np2YTvfzrZZbr5vK1lWpxmlgOco2F0n4Chd867NLAQP-tYtmyx2sevAA5N0WrpUE/s320/DSC02205.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273196842308921330" /></a><br />Mr. Chugach himself knows the range and especially Eagle River better than anybody, without a doubt. We had talked about going out and scoping an unclimbed ice route high up in the valley but the motivation to hike 4,000' for one pitch of ice wasn't quite there.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2iYRwiyrAsOUs30YlkllrVwQZM3a1FG51k7Fx5q5ZpmJdvLuldxv8J1-VwbiP7a3qxHvf7ljgwFA8KB07KS-BC1ABpAU5MK24h_JTYk7Ni66a1DhVtmH7IXSpw9QeE0BMjLh28pAhXzs/s1600-h/DSC02208.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2iYRwiyrAsOUs30YlkllrVwQZM3a1FG51k7Fx5q5ZpmJdvLuldxv8J1-VwbiP7a3qxHvf7ljgwFA8KB07KS-BC1ABpAU5MK24h_JTYk7Ni66a1DhVtmH7IXSpw9QeE0BMjLh28pAhXzs/s320/DSC02208.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273196850426638162" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Richard, all smiles!</span><br /><br />So instead we went to a beautiful early season climb that rides up a gully for more than 2,000'. Well, we hit it in early season...in the early season of early season. The climb was definitely 'in' but it was wetter than a fish. <br /><br />Richard and I brought a rope but never took it out. We climbed the first three main ice pillars, all of which are fairly steep but never too hard. The third pillar was so unbelievably wet, we would have been dryer had we jumped in a pool. Even though it was steep, we opted not to rope up due to the water. The idea was just to climb as fast through it as possible. <br /><br />An interesting note would be that I fell up to my waist in a deep pool when some ice broke underneath me. Soaking but not too cold, we climbed to the base of the main pillar. It was equally as wet, so we took an exit trail and hiked back down.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQtUbtPBhQH2kTn02N3Hqd9E-FurM6gbjMrWQJviO7q46nC1tIlt3_-Drr1aO9THHDVQC_DNqFVJh4NXXZFQYkamBSHnlYOdQfbviw9D0wOEgURUoe4nsqiFzrWgWBDOcPC74xiPL258/s1600-h/DSC02209.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQtUbtPBhQH2kTn02N3Hqd9E-FurM6gbjMrWQJviO7q46nC1tIlt3_-Drr1aO9THHDVQC_DNqFVJh4NXXZFQYkamBSHnlYOdQfbviw9D0wOEgURUoe4nsqiFzrWgWBDOcPC74xiPL258/s320/DSC02209.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273196852133068434" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Richard coming up with Clint's swimming pool below him</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UDtnILGLeKJe3tJBJAjXgVykivUl0uTYjcIu2PtQJnesNVPeZEbBa3BQwivWdFT980JxC5R9yBq954TcC_r0TxgLPHO0MytD4qv4pVrxbguWfirIV3GIbziwBJTsFJSXWZvNyEEHjlQ/s1600-h/DSC02215.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UDtnILGLeKJe3tJBJAjXgVykivUl0uTYjcIu2PtQJnesNVPeZEbBa3BQwivWdFT980JxC5R9yBq954TcC_r0TxgLPHO0MytD4qv4pVrxbguWfirIV3GIbziwBJTsFJSXWZvNyEEHjlQ/s320/DSC02215.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273196859631735282" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Richard running up the third main piece of ice</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1NQdv_3gEYtWQBhTYGmM7DGlAz-WtWL2MqImGVVa3NoWAo9CY2Hi1q_Ya_5YXP6qhQAoz8Dk2J2tbUNfS5odYw9rW-rvbSe9KSmYxb-ZkNSOhJBjj9oC7eWYjetctisYIAbXRvQqO74/s1600-h/DSC02219.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1NQdv_3gEYtWQBhTYGmM7DGlAz-WtWL2MqImGVVa3NoWAo9CY2Hi1q_Ya_5YXP6qhQAoz8Dk2J2tbUNfS5odYw9rW-rvbSe9KSmYxb-ZkNSOhJBjj9oC7eWYjetctisYIAbXRvQqO74/s320/DSC02219.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273196859993125618" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">...and getting SOAKED!!!</span><br /><br />My clothes were stiff as they turned to solid ice sheets. All in all, it was a good day on the ice in late October. Sometimes the fun comes in suffering a little bit.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-31323718655750884192008-11-25T22:26:00.011-09:002008-11-26T01:33:40.659-09:00Motivation and lack there of...It is amazing how at times, there is so much motivation pulsing through my veins it is like riding a lightning bolt. Other times I feel like a deflated balloon, empty and flat. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/4369591/2/istockphoto_4369591-flabby-yellow-balloon.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 380px; height: 261px;" src="http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/4369591/2/istockphoto_4369591-flabby-yellow-balloon.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />Right now I am the balloon. The stress of school, work and Alaska's short days as we approach winter solstice have zapped my energy and my will to train.<br /><br /><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WHKoX9b8TaZPyfsvUEk5Pw"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SC5FkBgl1PI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/Cb7by469ZkY/s400/DSC01568.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right"> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ClintHelander/Revelations2008"></a></td></tr></table><span style="font-style:italic;">After a long and stressful day in the Revelations this spring. This is how I feel now.</span><br /><br />Flash back several months ago when I was hitting the rock-gym four times a week, running, lifting weights, riding my bike. I was running on an emotional and motivational high. My ambitions were all I thought about and being my best fueled my every thought. <br /><br />Take one sip of beer. Add one bowl of ice cream, four term papers, 40 hour work weeks and no immediate objectives. Now repeat four to five times...with the beer, quantify by 100. That's where I am at now. But it isn't where I want to be.<br /><br />As far as ice climbing goes, I feel like I'm climbing better than I ever have, but that isn't enough. I need to get out and put in some long days in the mountains. I need to feel the burn in my thighs from post-holing up some precarious snow slope as fast and efficient as I can. But, I don't want to. Where is my motivation?<br /><br />There is an infinite multitude of amazing online sources for training that I have been looking at lately. Here are some of my favorites that at least spark the motivation.<br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/2g7DnGyYGnw&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/2g7DnGyYGnw&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">Kelly Cordes Training for alpine climbing</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.psychovertical.com/i/pvlogo.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://www.psychovertical.com/i/pvlogo.png" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;"><a href="http://psychovertical.com">Andy Kirkpatrick's website: Pyscho Vertical</a></span><br /><br />I find the best motivators for me are old pictures from previous climbs and trips. Not only do they get me thinking about fun times in the mountains with my friends, they also get me thinking about how alive I felt in those situations.<br /><br />So, here's a few shots from over the years to get me, and you... <span style="font-weight:bold;">MOTIVATED</span>!<br /><br /><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/66D6339kCGweD3I6Ruc65A"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SFV3bDS3G5I/AAAAAAAAA-0/Qco8Naum78w/s400/DSC01060.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ClintHelander/Revelations2008"></a></td></tr></table><br /><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yU42Z0J50d3NEZ203vZBBQ"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SC47YRgl0uI/AAAAAAAAAyc/2ZA2b8IBasA/s400/DSC01345.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ClintHelander/Revelations2008"></a></td></tr></table><br /><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ka71B3NSrCWEk1MlXJiBAA?authkey=NZe9cqQJ9cA"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtM-upoYHRDaKgwOTtmZlxfQULmGvCViDCQPHglJN1MGuWuit1YiFlr6_452svj9Ku-IA_9isdLI1_4ODf5NuJyKuzBGxd4gvD9hPHEGSbppkViVMVcZe3L76Bbo7o8ODVWK1c9fRxCOE/s400/yukla.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/ClintHelander/HigherDreams?authkey=NZe9cqQJ9cA"></a></td></tr></table><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUO8oTIj-Ux-ECWK-k4d60_k0TCMjxRgN3HUESzjUl7HFR4kmPZ960s1eGd7fQlBcVcDAwbpTd8UKe9EGpFaM3ZIdf4F1kXQ_McpHWtcfXanKbTOSh3_P945b-17B0MWTl5yVRNDIFd7g/s1600-h/DSC00813+copy.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUO8oTIj-Ux-ECWK-k4d60_k0TCMjxRgN3HUESzjUl7HFR4kmPZ960s1eGd7fQlBcVcDAwbpTd8UKe9EGpFaM3ZIdf4F1kXQ_McpHWtcfXanKbTOSh3_P945b-17B0MWTl5yVRNDIFd7g/s320/DSC00813+copy.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272904892941214930" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItr436snuoXorwczd-hnpAHXGP4x0ENCITnFaBy9SXRWFuKonqrMO_SvUMV_GQqmvhb967mDuJsjJ_-Kz0hBM5Kqe0s-Ae8lrmD3EdvUKDgLivv2LJ9LrXMr8dE-Ut_8Pwf_Qywhd7MM/s1600-h/DSC00174.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItr436snuoXorwczd-hnpAHXGP4x0ENCITnFaBy9SXRWFuKonqrMO_SvUMV_GQqmvhb967mDuJsjJ_-Kz0hBM5Kqe0s-Ae8lrmD3EdvUKDgLivv2LJ9LrXMr8dE-Ut_8Pwf_Qywhd7MM/s320/DSC00174.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272904886292856546" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-69824467797359673842008-11-05T10:53:00.008-09:002008-11-26T12:44:06.092-09:00Ptarmigan Peak<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SR3efg2-_qI/AAAAAAAABwM/tfGoA8UUGpI/R0010401.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SR3efg2-_qI/AAAAAAAABwM/tfGoA8UUGpI/R0010401.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Photo courtesy of Colin Haley</span><br /><br /><br />Immediately after returning from Yosemite, it was back to work and school. For many months, I had been working with the American Alpine Club, Black Diamond and the Bear Tooth Theatre to put together a slideshow. It would also be a benefit for the AAC, to help rebuild and renovate the Snowbird Hut in the Talkeetna Mountains.<br /><br />Colin Haley, fresh off an attempt on Baintha Brakk (better known as the Ogre) in Pakistan flew up to Alaska and gave a wonderful slideshow on the Torre Traverse.<br /><br />After that he had a few days to play before heading back down to Seattle.<br /><br />The two of us ended up going out to Ptarmigan Peak with Scotty and Carl. The ski out was great and we didn't have many problems with moose. While the other guys scratched their way up one of Carl's old test pieces near Caught With a Youngin', Colin and I did a longer and more moderate route called Ski Tracks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3mQzTb2dAZEpqcS7W2SUTlbRZiTaa2Co9E2xQNzIhmLhvp4UfmT8RXzU4V28R_P8e-TxwwtjV2zGiE2wto3OEbDVCUtXyiGsBj_y2dX-4G8X1W3brBVEuP9PVEcs4xmbBfDkJK_2BPY/s1600-h/DSC02191.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3mQzTb2dAZEpqcS7W2SUTlbRZiTaa2Co9E2xQNzIhmLhvp4UfmT8RXzU4V28R_P8e-TxwwtjV2zGiE2wto3OEbDVCUtXyiGsBj_y2dX-4G8X1W3brBVEuP9PVEcs4xmbBfDkJK_2BPY/s320/DSC02191.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265473048342622850" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifeOge441Yf4sCfo9ummuTKY0G9mORySH7_sZ57SUtxtNIVjR8HUG532zKL0KJiEkDhj_YWC24wIgLbhKqFS_rKDl0dm2r0L3ROAYzOoKSrOTHgE7sbEqWYgzsIAJIbCQNljkHfIOm-vA/s1600-h/DSC02196.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifeOge441Yf4sCfo9ummuTKY0G9mORySH7_sZ57SUtxtNIVjR8HUG532zKL0KJiEkDhj_YWC24wIgLbhKqFS_rKDl0dm2r0L3ROAYzOoKSrOTHgE7sbEqWYgzsIAJIbCQNljkHfIOm-vA/s320/DSC02196.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265475012564000290" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZWUMvGuXP3pOo7BsPST5NsTB_ORm-T-fzOTunZROUU0KCrYsWO4eDcRam5Tog-IMRacCeLDzaWyapGhx6jbXKNbHG2z7hK-p81dDejRFuvSSsRhmq-ENLYjd55qf96EmMGD_wtR_BSw/s1600-h/DSC02200.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZWUMvGuXP3pOo7BsPST5NsTB_ORm-T-fzOTunZROUU0KCrYsWO4eDcRam5Tog-IMRacCeLDzaWyapGhx6jbXKNbHG2z7hK-p81dDejRFuvSSsRhmq-ENLYjd55qf96EmMGD_wtR_BSw/s320/DSC02200.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265473059502351650" /></a><br />Aside from being extremely strong and remarkably efficient, Colin is amazingly humble. It was a fun day out on the mountains with a great guy!<br /><br />A big thanks goes out to Colin for coming up and raising several thousand dollars for a good local cause!!! <a href="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/story/7/137">Check out the AAC's article</a>!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIpMJypohgb-7zNR3roGrkJp-6F4IXQIGYRTJ8M_rqSrlbyTY8ifwWmubDmvfWOsacNr0oig4SVchqFPc9VWAWTPxnElS06nAtNgoG9kf92umFtsvvWv7nEzB_WBrAmfftjs6Rk9ex0s/s1600-h/DSC02202.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIpMJypohgb-7zNR3roGrkJp-6F4IXQIGYRTJ8M_rqSrlbyTY8ifwWmubDmvfWOsacNr0oig4SVchqFPc9VWAWTPxnElS06nAtNgoG9kf92umFtsvvWv7nEzB_WBrAmfftjs6Rk9ex0s/s320/DSC02202.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265473073713603106" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SR3e4X1qxOI/AAAAAAAABwg/23JnrGZQJS4/R0010415.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SR3e4X1qxOI/AAAAAAAABwg/23JnrGZQJS4/R0010415.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Photo courtesy of Colin Haley</span>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-80921931335297158032008-10-23T11:08:00.015-08:002008-11-13T20:12:00.315-09:00Yosemite Valley<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5TqnSdII/AAAAAAAABkk/YdzBH7PzXL4/s576/DSC02096.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5TqnSdII/AAAAAAAABkk/YdzBH7PzXL4/s576/DSC02096.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>El Capitan, the crown of American rock<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4xPloFqI/AAAAAAAABjM/bIFhJMOe9vc/s576/DSC01919.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand; width: 400px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4xPloFqI/AAAAAAAABjM/bIFhJMOe9vc/s576/DSC01919.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />Before winter had even hit Anchorage, I had a craving for warm weather. Perhaps it was due to the THREE days of "summer" we had that hit 70 degrees, perhaps it was just a desire to climb in Yosemite. Either way, I HAD to go. <br /><br />I went down there with plans to meet my buddy Travis, who had hitched a ride over from Jackson, Wyoming. As I walked into the parking lot of Camp 4, I saw my friend Ben from Anchorage. It was totally random, but great to see a familiar face right off the bat. We didn't waste any time and hopped right on the classic Nutcracker, a four-pitch 5.8. <br />The feel of beautiful, warm granite under my hands and feet was euphoric. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4sbzkdpI/AAAAAAAABi4/dka2B4iYNKs/s576/DSC01908.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4sbzkdpI/AAAAAAAABi4/dka2B4iYNKs/s576/DSC01908.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Trav seconding on Munginella, a sweet 5.6 warm-up!<br /><br /><br />Travis showed up the next day and we got right to it. My buddy Nick Parker listed off a few of the classics I had to do when I was in the Valley, and we started with a nice, simple warm-up on Munginella, a five-pitch 5.6 on a rock formation called the Five-Open Books. We did a lot of climbing on this formation, as it had a high concentration of four to six-pitch routes in the 5.8-5.9 range. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4t5KhGHI/AAAAAAAABi8/4xknLooZGWM/s576/DSC01909.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4t5KhGHI/AAAAAAAABi8/4xknLooZGWM/s576/DSC01909.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>The third pitch of Munginella, with Lost Arrow Spire in the background<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY45TjqvQI/AAAAAAAABmM/Yui4BaMJWBI/s400/DSC01978.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY45TjqvQI/AAAAAAAABmM/Yui4BaMJWBI/s400/DSC01978.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Some sweet chimney action...a little runout on After 7, a popular 5.8 <br /><br /><br />The days were spent climbing with an incredible backdrop of the visual wonders of Half Dome, Lost Arrow Spire, El Capitan and the Cathedral Spires. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4-T_loSI/AAAAAAAABj0/wTccOy1r098/s576/DSC01985.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4-T_loSI/AAAAAAAABj0/wTccOy1r098/s576/DSC01985.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Trav with the Cathedral Spires as a backdrop<br /><br /><br />On a rainy day we hiked up to the base of El Capitan to the North American Wall route. Rain ran off the wall, but fell over 100 feet into the forest...talk about steep. This section was overhanging!!!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4zansB4I/AAAAAAAABmA/AuSlCgDWeqw/s400/DSC01937.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY4zansB4I/AAAAAAAABmA/AuSlCgDWeqw/s400/DSC01937.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Hiking around under El Capitan<br /><br /><br />The classic Royal Arches was a fun and moderate route that put us up high above the valley. The hustle-bustle of activity below was quelled by the clinking of carabiners and cams. Bishop's Terrace was undoubtedly the best 5.8 I've ever climbed. It had a little bit of everything from fingers to hands (lots of hands) to a wide section that had me hopping up my lone #4 camalot.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZZ4lz_4I/AAAAAAAABtk/j8h2z09rVYQ/yosemite%20to%20SF%20076.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZZ4lz_4I/AAAAAAAABtk/j8h2z09rVYQ/yosemite%20to%20SF%20076.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Setting up the rappel atop Bishop's Terrace. It was a beautiful and HOT day<br /><br /><br />A great guy from Wales named Matt spent a lot of time climbing with us. He and I tried to get on the South Face of Washington's Column but got turned around by crowds, so no big wall for us this time. Oh well. We cracked a beer from our haul-bag on a ledge and watched the sun set on the northwest face of Half Dome.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5L6FFMQI/AAAAAAAABkQ/p2Tle_xS5iY/s576/DSC02055.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5L6FFMQI/AAAAAAAABkQ/p2Tle_xS5iY/s576/DSC02055.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Sorting and packing gear before our attempt on Washington's Column<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5Pqdi3OI/AAAAAAAABkY/uYnqPw_Td0w/s576/DSC02078.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5Pqdi3OI/AAAAAAAABkY/uYnqPw_Td0w/s576/DSC02078.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Matt and I on Washington's Column with Half Dome in the background<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5RicUgVI/AAAAAAAABkg/ny8kOxQxTAU/s576/DSC02081.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5RicUgVI/AAAAAAAABkg/ny8kOxQxTAU/s576/DSC02081.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>A little sacrifice for the friends we wished were with us<br /><br /><br />We met many great people from all over the world and had almost as much fun sitting around the crackling fires at Camp Four as we did climbing. It seemed as if half of Alaska was down in the Valley when we were there. I think I met 14 people I knew!<br /><br />Aside from climbing a lot, we got to do a lot of other cool stuff. We watched Hans and Yuji smash their speed record of the Nose, climbing the whole route in just over 2:35 minutes. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5HFHkYGI/AAAAAAAABmk/nd9dLE2cTOE/s400/DSC02029.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5HFHkYGI/AAAAAAAABmk/nd9dLE2cTOE/s400/DSC02029.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Hans and Yuji on their record-breaking run up the Nose<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5CmkQrjI/AAAAAAAABj8/A28kxkBR6bc/s576/DSC02003.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5CmkQrjI/AAAAAAAABj8/A28kxkBR6bc/s576/DSC02003.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>The Sentinel at sunset<br /><br /><br />On another day we bailed off of the Central Pillar of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral Peak after the weather started heading south. We headed back over to El Cap and played around on the biggest rope swing I've ever seen. Nothing says 'fun' like swinging nearly 200 feet over the forest in front of El Capitan!<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZh6xgYII/AAAAAAAABuE/4Ds3SWUrdbY/s640/yosemite%20to%20SF%20288.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZh6xgYII/AAAAAAAABuE/4Ds3SWUrdbY/s640/yosemite%20to%20SF%20288.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Me leading up the first pitch of the Central Pillar of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZnKJRGaI/AAAAAAAABuc/gizaC_QCqak/s640/yosemite%20to%20SF%20294.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZnKJRGaI/AAAAAAAABuc/gizaC_QCqak/s640/yosemite%20to%20SF%20294.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>We were having a good time at this belay!<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5WBpneTI/AAAAAAAABms/HETVKSWUx4o/s400/DSC02100.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; ;" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5WBpneTI/AAAAAAAABms/HETVKSWUx4o/s400/DSC02100.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>On the Central Pillar of Frenzy before the weather closed in. The East Buttress of El Cap is in the background<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZlQA5cxI/AAAAAAAABuU/WSBKqnTgB8Y/s640/yosemite%20to%20SF%20293.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SRzZlQA5cxI/AAAAAAAABuU/WSBKqnTgB8Y/s640/yosemite%20to%20SF%20293.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Matt and I on the Central Pillar<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5h8GvbjI/AAAAAAAABlE/cFxRSvx3cMA/s576/DSC02147.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5h8GvbjI/AAAAAAAABlE/cFxRSvx3cMA/s576/DSC02147.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Swinging high and far on the El Cap rope swing as the snow starts to fall<br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LVUaF0bQ9Cc&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LVUaF0bQ9Cc&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br />Me taking the big swing<br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/uj7x39Y4AFM&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/uj7x39Y4AFM&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br />Another swing from my point of view, this one had a harder landing<br /><br /><br />Before I knew it, it was time to leave. Of course, just when my trip was winding down was when I was starting to feel really strong and comfortable. Oh well, next year!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5oTqebWI/AAAAAAAABm0/A2OGBgK4p0M/s400/DSC02174.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5oTqebWI/AAAAAAAABm0/A2OGBgK4p0M/s400/DSC02174.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />Trav and I finished our trip on a five-pitch route called Super Slide, a great 5.9 on the Arches. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5pkXUAXI/AAAAAAAABm4/uo88h3phjE4/s400/DSC02175.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5pkXUAXI/AAAAAAAABm4/uo88h3phjE4/s400/DSC02175.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Trav making his way up Super Slide<br /> <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5qqg3VSI/AAAAAAAABm8/RDAvGdvxXws/s400/DSC02187.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SPY5qqg3VSI/AAAAAAAABm8/RDAvGdvxXws/s400/DSC02187.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a>Trav and I at the top of Superslide on our last day in Yosemite. You've gotta love his fishing hat!Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-52882653715414314242008-07-09T10:17:00.011-08:002008-12-11T10:13:07.066-09:00The High OneImmediately after I returned from my trip to the Revelations, it was time to start repacking for Denali. As I washed my clothes and drank a cool beer, I was struck with a sense of trepidation. This would be my first time on Denali, but I felt like I already knew every step of the route. Years of studying and reading about it had given me a sort of third party insight to every aspect of the West Buttress and the <br />lifestyle on the mountain. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SR3efBehCrI/AAAAAAAABwE/5QuLDegcc9Y/s912/pano_mc_04Clint%20copy.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; " src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/SR3efBehCrI/AAAAAAAABwE/5QuLDegcc9Y/s912/pano_mc_04Clint%20copy.JPG" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />It wasn't the height or the weather that had me less than excited about the trip, it was the hoards. Having come from the Revelations, a place almost no one had ever even heard of, the West Buttress of Denali was a complete polar opposite. Regardless, I knew it was going to be an adventure, just not a 'wilderness adventure.'<br /><br />This was going to be my third year working with Rainier Mountaineering Inc., a guide service out of Ashford, WA. I had spent the past two summers guiding on 14,411' Mount Rainier, and had earned a spot working on Denali. <br /><br />As Jay Hudson of Hudson Air dropped our crew off at basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier, the anticipation and excitement grew with the height of the surrounding mountains. Immediately I ran into Alaskan hardman Mark Westman. A quick hello was all we had time for, but he had just completed the fourth ascent of the Isis Face on Denali as well as a new route near the Mini-Moonflower. Hearing about his climbing adventures already whetted my appetite for something other than a three-week slog. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-obFcllADrYs5ilWdwkU69wScyZhdZT3k1Wpzs8v9v4QxwRDsSLCotCpl4oUkKkEo4bmo1uK566E2MUhpd4gZXkqY3zQAknCbVBjUVpcgG5bYPf1aTIwMj844596l1J06zWngIrPu1qA/s1600-h/DSC01753.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-obFcllADrYs5ilWdwkU69wScyZhdZT3k1Wpzs8v9v4QxwRDsSLCotCpl4oUkKkEo4bmo1uK566E2MUhpd4gZXkqY3zQAknCbVBjUVpcgG5bYPf1aTIwMj844596l1J06zWngIrPu1qA/s320/DSC01753.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225173207026366322" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Looking into the Valley of Death from the lower Kahiltna Glacier.</span> <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAlPI6AX7M4VsDhByAqkwuqpFLgUnJ0rGOQ5vK7BlsHT9Z0WLosnWroboiOl5VG7X-AnAFGAmEX1KE00au5y7xDazF3tjf7_tmEGcqN-pdp3kVby0FQXy3SDi7LxO0FkZM3DAehc1_5w/s1600-h/DSC01756.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAlPI6AX7M4VsDhByAqkwuqpFLgUnJ0rGOQ5vK7BlsHT9Z0WLosnWroboiOl5VG7X-AnAFGAmEX1KE00au5y7xDazF3tjf7_tmEGcqN-pdp3kVby0FQXy3SDi7LxO0FkZM3DAehc1_5w/s320/DSC01756.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225173209217138898" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">11k Camp with Foraker in the background</span><br /><br /><br />Our team was incredibly strong, the personalities unique yet comparable. As we moved higher up the West Buttress, the weather seemed to be holding stable. It looked as though we would complete a relatively fast trip, if only the weather would hold.<br /><br />We ran into Steve House at 11K camp. He and his client Richard were acclimatizing for the Cassin Ridge. We would run into them many more times throughout the trip and it was neat to pick his brain about various climbs around the world.<br />At one point he stopped to talk to us and I somehow held his Grivel ice tool. "Grant me some of your power, Great White Hope!" I remember thinking. Perhaps I thought by touching a tool that had seen so many premiere ascents, some of Steve's innate ability would osmosisize into me. I'm not sure it worked, but it was worth a try.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55qePWzsj9c2TxKPrF9dfy8mk1ubZHW7SUhl5Rk8ytkbQVAUSmudCb2u7biBsaiZHdUGK-CyUpIgYoviiZ2WwowA_KfAjwiDi_f6tRWQ-Wsgg7oWzeASueRbKtny-ljnmTztanb-tTGM/s1600-h/DSC01779.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55qePWzsj9c2TxKPrF9dfy8mk1ubZHW7SUhl5Rk8ytkbQVAUSmudCb2u7biBsaiZHdUGK-CyUpIgYoviiZ2WwowA_KfAjwiDi_f6tRWQ-Wsgg7oWzeASueRbKtny-ljnmTztanb-tTGM/s320/DSC01779.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225173227865881426" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Winds at 14k Camp</span><br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-eIdyPHjpXo&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-eIdyPHjpXo&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">Life at 14,400'</span><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUaDOOPV52NTu7qMkKMj7EX0dzePH3mBcYTmY6xQPSjLpoGYFSXYX2XeD5X4RfkIOlHlr6qu88WltH4UqJ564xHuav5GvqPRwOzvPJCm9b1701pt3K-MFiFsl4mVNlMWF1iOnjopTFb04/s1600-h/DSC01794.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUaDOOPV52NTu7qMkKMj7EX0dzePH3mBcYTmY6xQPSjLpoGYFSXYX2XeD5X4RfkIOlHlr6qu88WltH4UqJ564xHuav5GvqPRwOzvPJCm9b1701pt3K-MFiFsl4mVNlMWF1iOnjopTFb04/s320/DSC01794.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225175818629385442" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Foraker and 14k camp from the edge of the world at 17k camp</span><br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6wGrqJmPTJU&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6wGrqJmPTJU&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">A panorama video from 17K</span><br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Htvnb5L9Xss&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Htvnb5L9Xss&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><span style="font-style:italic;">...And then this happened...for several days...and it sucked!</span><br /><br /><br />A week of bad weather at 17K and three trips to Denali Pass at 18,300' had worn us out. Finally on the third attempt two guides and two clients made it to the top in less than ideal weather. We made it down and out in 19 days. It was super nice to get back down to the green forests and blooming flowers. Plus, I made it down just in time for a very special birthday party...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibe5i-JvPuPmlKpTtNizGiR1UgBCAi12b9v5EFhX7Rq-pSaJMbGrGIGI5R9mOdvNRct-pWDjkcE5DtQClJTzNahbT7qYtA-R7yUlLGXgCjh8pqtDyIY_fWoHQGuEhcLEaUCCMHhOq4X5Q/s1600-h/DSC01786.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibe5i-JvPuPmlKpTtNizGiR1UgBCAi12b9v5EFhX7Rq-pSaJMbGrGIGI5R9mOdvNRct-pWDjkcE5DtQClJTzNahbT7qYtA-R7yUlLGXgCjh8pqtDyIY_fWoHQGuEhcLEaUCCMHhOq4X5Q/s320/DSC01786.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225173235241724674" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Cloud walkers: Climbers on the ridge just below 17k camp</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJXrAW0I9Qbcd4KMgDUaFtFRKIY096uNEXgu4TiOV84YhAr3Bz_Mv7tbxbvs9t_8jozdoPdGVDPde9PldC32LhVcxeBMnYmZl_upPuInFvT7CAENLrYdZgq7jmnBGy1cPmyyYKaodsvw/s1600-h/DSC01799.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJXrAW0I9Qbcd4KMgDUaFtFRKIY096uNEXgu4TiOV84YhAr3Bz_Mv7tbxbvs9t_8jozdoPdGVDPde9PldC32LhVcxeBMnYmZl_upPuInFvT7CAENLrYdZgq7jmnBGy1cPmyyYKaodsvw/s320/DSC01799.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225175830171595282" /></a>Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-37636633489593398342008-07-06T11:25:00.010-08:002008-12-11T10:13:09.724-09:00Dishwater Drainage - Volume TwoThe Revelations trip was coming up in a matter of days and I had yet to get my massive cache from Dishwater. So, instead of studying for school finals, I decided to go pick it up and go climbing for the weekend. <br /><br />This time, it was Ricardo Baranowski, his friend Paul and me who would be going out there. It was so warm on the hike out that we didn't even wear our shirts for much of the time. Once again, Kaupo and Nene accompanied us in and helped carry some weight. <br /><br />One the first night we enjoyed a beautiful sunset followed by seemingly eternal alpenglow. These are the moments I think most define my passion for being in the mountains. You don't get views like this in the hustle-bustle city!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzWxwF1BH5LAv3WhcHs7t4_1pJhkl5yHmhMLlxugb9n5i3mWcd-7SJhpr42fKH0_m1H7ZZUpQhebVi38Eiwo1E3zF4yfUtEutUNhNr1-YuRwL8d0wUbQ7moRKApXs0aatGBmyVFkzsns/s1600-h/DSC01149.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzWxwF1BH5LAv3WhcHs7t4_1pJhkl5yHmhMLlxugb9n5i3mWcd-7SJhpr42fKH0_m1H7ZZUpQhebVi38Eiwo1E3zF4yfUtEutUNhNr1-YuRwL8d0wUbQ7moRKApXs0aatGBmyVFkzsns/s320/DSC01149.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219986556973126034" /></a><br />Richard's snowcave was huge!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ71AJVMs_4mlk56VZDc6Rz_xjjxUOgdNRZzmPWov7aTlBliUDgLuEqQpjHRn9T6c3JZMBvdLTZgJFVgpYmlJLFGn_g49Mzp7ZsqJK9SD3_pWEV9tabnrLYgcepCsBMONq-24uOZfJlWI/s1600-h/DSC01157.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ71AJVMs_4mlk56VZDc6Rz_xjjxUOgdNRZzmPWov7aTlBliUDgLuEqQpjHRn9T6c3JZMBvdLTZgJFVgpYmlJLFGn_g49Mzp7ZsqJK9SD3_pWEV9tabnrLYgcepCsBMONq-24uOZfJlWI/s320/DSC01157.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219986567105051730" /></a><br />We got started early in the morning and hiked to the head of the cirque. There we found a narrow gash that appeared to lead to the summit of Nantina Point. Richard took the first lead up and over a short little rock step, then belayed Paul and me up.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdNMo4odNW6MvUoLn61IpYcDW1Oi66xGUMLl5Q34wM91jNMpiRgQXcjlkcMjNHVRm0taGFebt3uCxvtrfN3y4T6QarjUuqYByZ6BChyDx8UUBQPxWtAppWCYMclY4qr8A0-3bb0wu-yc/s1600-h/DSC01173.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdNMo4odNW6MvUoLn61IpYcDW1Oi66xGUMLl5Q34wM91jNMpiRgQXcjlkcMjNHVRm0taGFebt3uCxvtrfN3y4T6QarjUuqYByZ6BChyDx8UUBQPxWtAppWCYMclY4qr8A0-3bb0wu-yc/s320/DSC01173.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219986587890691730" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKNuw1iaS_azQg4O9MB_wIu3kIXLTy83CcgJVKkvrLOdPgnf9TEekOnQ6Y7eviEOR9nQlXDxwFBv3pmTOH2GII9Om_l9vStDNZ3I5i8VkTXyJADuiMStVX36qkrzr6ohIr9fCGcUK_s4/s1600-h/DSC01175.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKNuw1iaS_azQg4O9MB_wIu3kIXLTy83CcgJVKkvrLOdPgnf9TEekOnQ6Y7eviEOR9nQlXDxwFBv3pmTOH2GII9Om_l9vStDNZ3I5i8VkTXyJADuiMStVX36qkrzr6ohIr9fCGcUK_s4/s320/DSC01175.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219991100355218034" /></a><br />I got the next lead up the steepening gash and found incredibly unconsolidated snow over bad rock with little pro. When I was able to get a piece in, it was with really small gear, like a #00 C3 camalot or #3 stopper. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtNJVRpEZLUBVK1PEWLT_JyZeZqpVkbgtAR5CWD81zKvQOMgFQO6CXCNTF5R87-Z8YZnTLrnPcNsv9LXrQ5KuS7qUjv9RFWdMHlqQLGD1ep2vwzUCQ9CfdjqdkQroaAtywF4rehykpCCI/s1600-h/DSC01176.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtNJVRpEZLUBVK1PEWLT_JyZeZqpVkbgtAR5CWD81zKvQOMgFQO6CXCNTF5R87-Z8YZnTLrnPcNsv9LXrQ5KuS7qUjv9RFWdMHlqQLGD1ep2vwzUCQ9CfdjqdkQroaAtywF4rehykpCCI/s320/DSC01176.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219991109381043794" /></a><br />Leads were taking a while due to the poor snow conditions. Richard took the next lead over a short little snice and rock step, then across a really exposed and scary traverse to another couloir.<br /><br />By this time, I realized that the route was going to take far longer than we had expected. I had class at 8:30 in the morning and still had to hike out. Too many days climbing had pissed off my teacher and I was out of absences. Still, we continued up as the sun fell lower in the sky. Sometimes it is hard to stop when the momentum is pushing upward. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaWpwz7JkUjcJhVYYs94MaV36lJ2JsRHC3cUYivQHmQdymFMQpB6JHViO25xNPGORFdoY2jEjWSw3ts5SuzOdTzSycF0IBPZ2XLyGPhWShAFh9D8_kC9FmlNraHWJR-r6vkUdJw8aL_A/s1600-h/DSC01180.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaWpwz7JkUjcJhVYYs94MaV36lJ2JsRHC3cUYivQHmQdymFMQpB6JHViO25xNPGORFdoY2jEjWSw3ts5SuzOdTzSycF0IBPZ2XLyGPhWShAFh9D8_kC9FmlNraHWJR-r6vkUdJw8aL_A/s320/DSC01180.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219991131301523010" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63OhSgdzfQPLWHPgYrYanf-yMwG-TAKvmbtm25MSApA1X7qKXzNP8lWXAcchpIe1ZgRHWzUnUXY2aYlNXr1V9mAD187wuuguFpOSD5Cm-pdBn-RGBnu7rSu9mk6AXbHUvP2RNQyTLEB4/s1600-h/DSC01182.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63OhSgdzfQPLWHPgYrYanf-yMwG-TAKvmbtm25MSApA1X7qKXzNP8lWXAcchpIe1ZgRHWzUnUXY2aYlNXr1V9mAD187wuuguFpOSD5Cm-pdBn-RGBnu7rSu9mk6AXbHUvP2RNQyTLEB4/s320/DSC01182.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219991141397668290" /></a><br />As we got higher, the summit seemed like it was so close. Pitch after pitch kept proving that it was farther than we had anticipated, yet we still climbed. A large chunk of simul-climbing ate up a lot of elevation in a short amount of time. The sun set as we neared the summit, and I realized I had forgotten my headlamp. I was pretty mad at myself for forgetting such a key piece of gear.<br /><br />The last few pitches were devoid of gear placements. Paul and I were not at all motivated, but Richard was keen for the summit. He led all of the upper pitches including the last one. To break onto the summit Richard had to climb through a nasty cornice with almost no pro under him for an entire ropelength. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl1uizD099oSVsHhjOnTnCKQynQSEXxmICZVLmCusLChIi0cIPAkisXt-Q57HK9DL0i9WgO0pUNRbNXufhc_5T_WWkLX1FzPoDQSc2JTe9vjdHPe4JmoHVKbF8fu7fyFBWN-Esc88Q62A/s1600-h/DSC01211.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl1uizD099oSVsHhjOnTnCKQynQSEXxmICZVLmCusLChIi0cIPAkisXt-Q57HK9DL0i9WgO0pUNRbNXufhc_5T_WWkLX1FzPoDQSc2JTe9vjdHPe4JmoHVKbF8fu7fyFBWN-Esc88Q62A/s320/DSC01211.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220087691883567794" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCOK9yDHiSmky3cYef3y9IFlz5hyphenhyphenfmuHIx7elY04lVvMmXy9WrCxDr4nclsdfhqvZ8u2Wq9O1h89AdNArstz0Y2B03pr9-hNOUtpyMRldmetQHzp8xkHKBIzyU9sDhXJHSPTEqbhpJ88/s1600-h/DSC01217.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCOK9yDHiSmky3cYef3y9IFlz5hyphenhyphenfmuHIx7elY04lVvMmXy9WrCxDr4nclsdfhqvZ8u2Wq9O1h89AdNArstz0Y2B03pr9-hNOUtpyMRldmetQHzp8xkHKBIzyU9sDhXJHSPTEqbhpJ88/s320/DSC01217.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220087702738856258" /></a><br />We pulled up on the summit just as the sun went down and didn't stay long. Paul and I were anxious to get down, and I still had to hike out. By this time, I knew I was cutting it close.<br /><br />Paul coming up through the cornice<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjXGMuQaHv9SPC3wWP1xKpuOKAA57tbFxR_mr3FRXgxCFqewKSfS6_aHVIS5n91UFpvRrhAKLChJeCp8vDDkNA3ib12S9rLFCW5uPmDrtdmG__GLw_KA3S5DVWkGQK7mJ5nTR5fDTC7yY/s1600-h/DSC01221.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjXGMuQaHv9SPC3wWP1xKpuOKAA57tbFxR_mr3FRXgxCFqewKSfS6_aHVIS5n91UFpvRrhAKLChJeCp8vDDkNA3ib12S9rLFCW5uPmDrtdmG__GLw_KA3S5DVWkGQK7mJ5nTR5fDTC7yY/s320/DSC01221.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220087715846738178" /></a>The look on my face says it all<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCgwAl-dLoYqhrF89MusBxGNbtThxz3OmlwDrPSBfjZzt08rIOhknS91g5L32DrzQiqXjtGHCDRzx34d0X1yH9Oney4oNWf9K9xqM-JrIK4ncio1WjCNdOAdz9JUSwOuM2UaDkXfuc-g/s1600-h/DSC01235.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCgwAl-dLoYqhrF89MusBxGNbtThxz3OmlwDrPSBfjZzt08rIOhknS91g5L32DrzQiqXjtGHCDRzx34d0X1yH9Oney4oNWf9K9xqM-JrIK4ncio1WjCNdOAdz9JUSwOuM2UaDkXfuc-g/s320/DSC01235.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220087727169782658" /></a><br />As we rappelled through the night, I realized there was no way we were going to be able to make it back in time for me to make my class at 8:30 in the morning. It was a chilly night and we all had our down parkas on as we descended in 200' chunks. Towards the bottom of the route we could see the boulder where our snowcave was. All of a sudden we saw what looked like a headlamp down there. It turns out Richard's girlfriend Natalia had hiked up to help carry some of my stuff down because I was going to be hiking down alone otherwise with a lot of gear. I thought that was super nice of her!<br /><br />We finally got to camp at about 3:30 in the morning. I knew there was no way I could make it back in time, so I decided to just say "screw it" and passed out in the snow cave. In the morning Natalia and I hiked out under beautiful skies.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirG_uWjAPeAG5BqPsyClEWL8NYP60dGCfiZ3CcwfKjK7ZPqo-tP91-q_Fh7w7un2Rcf2CA3NJKjAEoL0VWl_rLHV1TpxL62i5qGqj12p4TCl5sPmbwS3dFkgbx2J5zAXfYxg9DMrYzTfM/s1600-h/DSC01251.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirG_uWjAPeAG5BqPsyClEWL8NYP60dGCfiZ3CcwfKjK7ZPqo-tP91-q_Fh7w7un2Rcf2CA3NJKjAEoL0VWl_rLHV1TpxL62i5qGqj12p4TCl5sPmbwS3dFkgbx2J5zAXfYxg9DMrYzTfM/s320/DSC01251.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220091452500971554" /></a><br />Despite my pleas, my professor showed me no sympathy and failed my ass for missing one too many classes. Needless to say I wasn't pleased. Oh well, I learned a lesson...Don't take 8:30 AM Monday classes.<br /><br />Perhaps when I'm retaking the class again in the Fall I'll be able to decide if it was worth it just to make the first ascent of the north face of Nantina Point.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4646607331337677604.post-66340992155383778482008-06-25T08:00:00.008-08:002008-12-11T10:13:11.271-09:00Dishwater Drainage - Volume OneLocal hardman Richard Baranow (a.k.a. Mr. Chugach) called me up one weekday and asked me if I would like to join him on a weekend climb into the Dishwater Creek Drainage in the North Fork of Eagle River. The area had been on my mind for quite a while and I knew the climbing potential was very good.<br /><br />On an early April weekend, Richard Baranow, Andy Hoyt, my good friend Steve Sinor and I headed out for a three night stay. The aim for this trip was both reconnaissance and obviously a little climbing. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAilABP8pXW5HQ-fJDYn_MF6btLA1iUnXUIOT01ycJq-7qh2FwYTiiotruSXjxPZG5s_znPrTnxe1Ut6kDuyMDDPgN0uK-aE54M5W28IonBOI-Fla6oZ_Pb2nRWnEF_w9MOSJzyT-W8vM/s1600-h/DSC01113.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAilABP8pXW5HQ-fJDYn_MF6btLA1iUnXUIOT01ycJq-7qh2FwYTiiotruSXjxPZG5s_znPrTnxe1Ut6kDuyMDDPgN0uK-aE54M5W28IonBOI-Fla6oZ_Pb2nRWnEF_w9MOSJzyT-W8vM/s320/DSC01113.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219978416677273778" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">A large bear had just passed, but we didn't see him</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkv9wmrXP9v2G70veYpKrthGTsvL2XBfOq2SKlbt83xzUXgAGo1ilUjUKkO1LRjm43WXMXUu6F4yc0bE91aua_hWd3hyt9BLMRfgp2JTCTx9PaDZLPHUgUl2JH7ug_Ya3_RD_ZXY1r38o/s1600-h/DSC01118.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkv9wmrXP9v2G70veYpKrthGTsvL2XBfOq2SKlbt83xzUXgAGo1ilUjUKkO1LRjm43WXMXUu6F4yc0bE91aua_hWd3hyt9BLMRfgp2JTCTx9PaDZLPHUgUl2JH7ug_Ya3_RD_ZXY1r38o/s320/DSC01118.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219978421370986530" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Richard's awesome dogs Kaupo and Nene both helped carry in some weight</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUoXs3WGEDA-THCFQomhGp4kS1Wu1SS6oSgfblp-SpKWwyOKRJVFvEPn05sl3LwxaENYSPF6dO_kaZupwTqMsTnLJAswbwbmJLpSZgpxZxJ9URftb4Q0lCgdVNnuWmDT-hDfYR5swtp4/s1600-h/DSC01127.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUoXs3WGEDA-THCFQomhGp4kS1Wu1SS6oSgfblp-SpKWwyOKRJVFvEPn05sl3LwxaENYSPF6dO_kaZupwTqMsTnLJAswbwbmJLpSZgpxZxJ9URftb4Q0lCgdVNnuWmDT-hDfYR5swtp4/s320/DSC01127.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219978427888933506" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Looking down the valley towards Eagle Peak</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy5PlYT7Z6F2LeHwFRz4moiLBo2S51vDL3ouQDKXGAgkEEBKOEjj5XwjJZ9gY7nUtSfRdRD4lmm_0v2bIMrU5poqT_DrpV-4zKIb5SnOyx8Hiz_U_02rtNIyK_Ac0GRMv58gUI1DHafS4/s1600-h/DSC01133.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy5PlYT7Z6F2LeHwFRz4moiLBo2S51vDL3ouQDKXGAgkEEBKOEjj5XwjJZ9gY7nUtSfRdRD4lmm_0v2bIMrU5poqT_DrpV-4zKIb5SnOyx8Hiz_U_02rtNIyK_Ac0GRMv58gUI1DHafS4/s320/DSC01133.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219978438364413410" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Looking up the valley at Kiliak Peak</span><br /><br />The hike in was easy, mostly painless. Compared to the next valley over, Icicle Creek, it was a cakewalk. As we moved into our snowcave camp, the sun dropped below the jagged horizon and alpenglow filled the sky. <br /><br />The two pairs split up in the morning and forayed on our own respective climbs. Steve and I climbed up a steep snow couloir with several easy rock steps. About 800' up the couloir was a beautiful unclimbed 60m ice line. Steve let me hop on the lead and I graciously accepted. <br /><br />The ice was pretty solid, but had a few rotten pockets. The going was mostly cruiser WI3 with one vertical 15' section. Steve followed up, then we rapped off a v-thread. Two more rappels got us down to lower angled downclimbing. <br />We named the route Shimmering Bliss.<br /><br />The next morning we hopped on a previously established line, put up by Wayne Todd and Corey Hinds. Richard and Andy had made the second ascent the day before. Steve and I had to hike out that day, so we just climbed a variation of the first pitch, fun and thin WI4.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHt16WVIt3mQmqBYHrIZG-JvBnaFUahapz0lIPZYKqEwOlY2RdZIwh6bcaxVleUfvNBkklLUqMR5TFnoZGCEZQmXunWm5iJ80HvoX5QFVGmahh5-VQ1CCmix86YLymCNfWwZlnv3Od-M/s1600-h/DSC01141.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHt16WVIt3mQmqBYHrIZG-JvBnaFUahapz0lIPZYKqEwOlY2RdZIwh6bcaxVleUfvNBkklLUqMR5TFnoZGCEZQmXunWm5iJ80HvoX5QFVGmahh5-VQ1CCmix86YLymCNfWwZlnv3Od-M/s320/DSC01141.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219978446266137826" /></a><span style="font-style:italic;">Shimmering Bliss is in the upper left. The initial couloir is not visible. The Hinds-Todd route follows up the initial ice pitch on the right and continues up a couloir to another ice smear</span><br /><br />Richard convinced me to leave my stuff there so I had no choice but to return and climb again. After careful consideration, I listened. The light backpack was nice on the hike out, but the fear of not getting back up in time to get my stuff was nerve racking.Clint Helanderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17324999969240452460noreply@blogger.com0